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  THE MAIN EVENT
Firenze Trattoria
   
 

The Story: There's no little Italian grandma lurking in the background of how Barry Podwell came to be the restaurateur behind Firenze Trattoria, an elegant Italian eatery tucked away on the back side of Encinitas. Basically, the native New Yorker and musician did a lot of research and put a lot of hard work into creating his place. Podwell wanted to craft a fine-dining restaurant that would appeal to the neighborhood with consistently good food. "Our business is repeat customers. We're not a tourist attraction," he says proudly. It seems like a rewarding place to work, too; most of the original employees who opened Firenze with him 15 years ago are still working there, from Milanese chef Italo Peveri to the wait staff. Podwell is saying thanks to loyal clientele in March, when his place will feature the most popular dishes and selected bottles of wine from the extensive list for $15 each.

The Vibe: Firenze is all about elegance and romance. It starts with the coved ceiling in the entryway featuring gleaming natural stone treatments and continues at the long, granite bar--illuminated by pendant lights that look handcrafted--where it's not uncommon to find a well-heeled denizen of Rancho Santa Fe enjoying a cocktail. The dining room, which serves lunch and dinner, glows with natural light and is graced by sweeping murals of the ocean and Firenze, the city of Florence, as it stretches out along the Arno River.

Choice Spot: He's loath to start any table wars, but Podwell says popular tables include the one in the back by the patio as well as a trio of banquettes (Nos. 32, 33 and 34) under the mural of Florence that offer a view of the room.

The Favorites: Lasagna isn't hard to find, but the Firenze version stands out: It's loaded with veal, beef and chicken, layered with ricotta cheese and tender pasta and swathed in housemade marinara sauce. With sage-and-butter sauce, the butternut squash are also hard to resist. The insalate gamberi pairs sweet, tender shrimp with tangy goat cheese and grilled eggplant, and the spinachi al Cesare adds the bolder flavor of spinach to the traditional Caesar salad mix of lemon, garlic and Parmesan.

Firenze Trattoria, 162 South Rancho Santa Fe Road, Encinitas, 760-944-9000, firenzetrattoria.com.

 

   
 
   
  CHEF SECRETS
William Bradley of Addison at The Grand Del Mar
   
 

Romantic ideas come pretty easily to newlywed William Bradley, executive chef of Addison at The Grand Del Mar. Bradley still likes cooking up romance for his wife, Kira, whom he wed on September 21.

If they have time for an outing, the couple loves driving up to L.A. for lunch or dinner at Pizzeria Mozza, the popular restaurant run by über-chef Mario Batali and famous baker Nancy Silverton. "That's hands down my favorite restaurant right now," Bradley says. "I love the margherita and the one with fennel sausage, charred garlic and fennel pollen." They eat two pizzas there and then take one home for the next day.

For a dinner at home, if Bradley doesn't buy a bottle of great champagne from Addison's deep wine cellar, he heads to The Winesellar & Brasserie in Mira Mesa and splurges on a bottle of Krug Grand Cuvée Brut, a multivintage champagne that's aged and fermented in oak, giving it a uniquely complex range of flavors. "It's just so crisp and full of effervescence; it's amazing," Bradley says. "It's very elegant, but very rich and buttery. It's the real deal."

Next he heads to Papyrus at the Del Mar Highlands Town Center in Carmel Valley for a greeting card that captures his sentiments on paper. "I've got to get a card, because I'm not really a flower guy," Bradley says. Then he goes next door to Chuao Chocolatier for some dark Venezuelan chocolate mixed with honey, hazelnuts or the Parchita hearts filled with passionfruit caramel.

The next two stops are Whole Foods Market in La Jolla for a free-range, heirloom chicken raised without growth hormones or antibiotics and Chino Farm in Rancho Santa Fe for Swiss chard. Bradley stuffs the chicken with cut lemons, thyme and garlic and rubs the outside with olive oil and sea salt. Then he puts it in the oven to roast. Halfway through, he adds chopped Swiss chard to the pan so it cooks in the chicken and lemon juices.

Though he creates complex dishes at the five-star, Five-Diamond resort, "We like to eat very light and flavorfully," Bradley says. "To me, it's all about the simple things in life."

And the young chef knows a thing or two about ambience too: "The ultimate background music would be the new Sade CD [Soldier of Love]," he says. "Yes, I'm into candles too. Now I'm getting embarrassed."

Addison is at The Grand Del Mar, 5200 Grand Del Mar Way, San Diego, 858-314-1900, addisondelmar.com.

   
 
   
  WHAT'S HOT
New menus, new nights, new restaurants, etc.
   
 

Little Italy gets ever more multidimensional and inviting as new places continue to debut. The latest is Bencotto Italian Kitchen, a stylish spot with the coolest fork-and-fleur-de-lis logo, serving modern Italian fare, cocktails and coffee in the center of the neighborhood. (750 West Fir Street, 619-450-4786, lovebencotto.com.) The former Airport Lounge has been transformed into El Camino Super Cocina, in the same cheeky mode as the original in South Park. It's hard to miss, with the huge neon arrow sign pointing to the building. Check out the Mexican kitsch decor (it mashes up the Virgin Mary, flowers and flying pigs) on Taco Tuesdays when half-price tacos and $3 beers, sangrías and margaritas rule. (2400 India Street, 619-685-3881, elcaminosd.com.)

We may be the last San Diegans to make this discovery, but we think we've discovered the best pizza pies in San Diego at the venerable Venice Pizza House. The recipe has been perfecting since June 1954, when Sicilian immigrant Sal LoMedico and wife Prudie realized his dream of opening a restaurant. This is a no-corners-cut, old-school pizza pie loaded with gooey mozzarella cheese, housemade Italian sausage and zesty and thick tomato sauce on a delicious crust. This is how pizza used to taste. 3333 El Cajon Boulevard, 619-283-2333, venicepizzahouse.com.

The card savvy diners want in their wallets is the Slow Food Urban San Diego Member Benefit Card. Join the international group, which supports local farmers and healthy meals for school kids, for $60 and you're entitled to discounts of 10 to 15 percent at sustainable-minded restaurants including Jsix at the Hotel Solamar, The Lodge at Torrey Pines, Waters Fine Foods to Go and Sea Rocket Bistro. More benefits are being added; for full details, visit slowfoodurbansandiego.org.

   
 
   
  RECIPE
Rigatoni alla Vodka e Fungi
   
 

From chef Italo Peveri of Firenze Trattoria

2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped shallots
1-1/2 cups sliced large mushrooms
3 ounces vodka
1-1/2 cups marinara sauce
8 ounces heavy cream
2 tablespoons green peas
pinch of salt and pepper, or to taste
10 ounces rigatoni, cooked in 4 quarts salted water until al dente (about 13 minutes) and drained
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, to taste

Sauté oil and shallots for one minute over medium high heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until all water evaporates. Add vodka. Stir and sauté for five minutes until vodka evaporates. Now add marinara sauce and cream; stir and sauté for another five minutes. Add the peas, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix the pasta with sauce and add some freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, to taste.

Makes four servings.

   
  EVENTS  
 

Port & Chocolate Tasting
When: February 14, 1 to 5 p.m.
Where: Bacchus Wine Market & Tasting Room, 647 G Street, downtown
Why Go: Who knew this delicious combo is also an aphrodisiac?
Info: Tickets are $15; for more info, call 619-236-0005.


IHOP National Pancake Day
When: February 23, 2010
Where: All IHOP locations countywide
Why Go: To feel rooty-tooty fresh and fruity about eating free buttermilk pancakes and raising money for the Children's Miracle Network.
Info: Visitors are encouraged to make a donation at visit www.IHOPPancakeDay.com.


Culture & Cocktails
When: February 25, 6 to 9 p.m.
Where: San Diego Museum of Art, 1450 El Prado in Balboa Park
Why Go: Because Monet is even more beautiful after a martini.
Info: www.sdmart.org or e-mail culture@sdmart.org.

 
       
       
       
 
 

Submit ideas for The Main Dish to
Maria C. Hunt, newsletter editor, at thebubblygirl@sbcglobal.net.
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