Very Important Taco: Chicken and Carnitas Tacos at Las Cuatro Milpas


These tacos aren’t Baja-Med. Who knows whether the corn for the masa is non-GMO. They definitely don’t taste like they’ll balance your chakras, and the restaurant itself sure as hell isn’t trendy—it’s been a pillar of the Barrio Logan community for nearly 90 years, and you don’t want it to change, ever. These crunchy, fatty tacos are legendary, and that’s why there’s always a line outside of Las Cuatro Milpas (and the queue was there long before a Michelin inspector finally smelled the spicy salsa and showed up this year).

The old-school menu board with changeable plastic letters shows just a few choices: hard-shell carnitas or chicken tacos stuffed with lettuce and queso fresco at $1.75 each, five rolled tacos for $5, tamales, burritos. Grab a tray, slide it down the cafeteria-style service line, and watch as the tortillas float in a huge pot of lard on the stove like lily pads on a pond as they fry to a crisp. No matter what you order, save room for a side of the famous rice and beans that come with a doughy flour tortilla—they’re as warm and comforting as a hug from your grandmother.

Stop putting off having a meal at Milpas or making excuses about the line being too long (it moves fast). Just get here. Ahora.

1857 Logan Avenue, Barrio Logan

(0) comments

Welcome to the discussion.

Keep it Clean. Please avoid obscene, vulgar, lewd, racist or sexually-oriented language.
Don't Threaten. Threats of harming another person will not be tolerated.
Be Truthful. Don't knowingly lie about anyone or anything.
Be Nice. No racism, sexism or any sort of -ism that is degrading to another person.
Be Proactive. Use the 'Report' link on each comment to let us know of abusive posts.
Share with Us. We'd love to hear eyewitness accounts, the history behind an article.