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At the Market

What to watch for this month


Published:

[ IN SEASON ]

Peaches

It’s the distinctive fragrance of warm summer afternoons that gets to me. Never buy a peach that is cold, hard, and scentless. Yellow or white, no good ever comes of it. Peaches should have just a little give and a heady floral aroma that portends a scrumptious, rich mouthful of flavor. Snack on them, turn them into sorbet, pie, even pickles. Slice and freeze to add to a smoothie. Roast or grill, and pair with herbs like Thai basil, mint, or lemon verbena, then drizzle on thick, reduced Balsamic vinegar. Summer begins now.

[ TOPPINGS ]

Panache Pantry

At-home moms Melissa Scorsone and Nicole Devine have launched a line of artisinal breadcrumbs based on an old family recipe. With their vintage Sicilian breadcrumbs, they’ve taken the concept to some wondrous contemporary places. If you’re thinking meatloaf topper, broaden those thoughts. The zucchini rosemary is lovely with roasted veggies; the pumpkin Cajun works equally well topping a fruit salad or scoop of ice cream—or as shrimp breading. A bag is $7 for eight ounces. All are made from a variety of artisan breads and can be found at the Little Italy Mercato, La Jolla Open Aire Market, and SOL Markets. panachepantry.com

[ UPGRADE ]

Venissimo Del Mar Expands

Venissimo “Cheese Wiz” Gina Freize is giving birth to a newly expanded Del Mar shop this month. Located in Flower Hill Mall, the shop is not only slipping into larger, 1,000-square-foot digs, it’s growing in attitude, taking a page from New York’s Eataly. Sure, you can still come in for slices of this or that formaggio, but now you can also enjoy a respite from your day with a cheese board or grilled “venini,” along with a glass of wine and local beers in the new dine-in area. There will be more charcuterie, olive tastings, and a greater selection of cheese accoutrements—from serving boards to eats like infused honey, cheese tapas, meat cones, and peppa goat bites. venissimo.com

[ COOKBOOK ]

Words to Eat By

Why do we use the word beef instead of cow, pork instead of pig, meat instead of flesh when we talk about food? Why is Häagen-Dazs (a name invented by Nestlé) so compelling, compared to Breyers? In Words to Eat By ($26/St. Martin’s Press), author Ina Lipkowitz pens a fascinating stew of cultural, etymological, and culinary history focusing on apples, leeks, dairy, meat, and bread—food basics all rooted in Old English—with some curious recipes included as well. Even as it entertains, the book makes the reader ruminate about the words we use for what we eat and how they shape our tastes.

Shopping tip: Never buy a peach that is scentless and hard. It should have a little give and a floral aroma.

By caron Golden, an expert on local markets and farms.
See more of her Local Bounty finds every week.

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