Main Dish for July
Notes, news, must-taste events, and more!
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Tacos from Haggo's Organic Taco
Garden Variety Taco @ Haggo’s Organic Taco. This little joint is one of my favorites. Located in a gravel spec of earth off Highway 101, a former Rancho Valencia cook is going super-progressive on the taco trade. Growing his own herbs, using tilapia for aquaculture in a bucket, etc. The garden variety taco is no meager shreds of roughage—but full slices of squash and seasonal veggies, red beans, organic sharp cheddar, avo and fresh herbs with a non-GMO corn tortilla cooked to chewy-crisp perfection.
1114 N. Coast Hwy, Encinitas, 760.753.6000. haggosorganictaco.com
Thick Cut Brioche French Toast @ Tower 23. If you romanticize the airport terminal cinnamon buns that smell like a religious experience, these are a great gourmet version. They stand about three inches tall with a nice thick bit of caramelization atop and powdered sugar. Just pair that with the view of Crystal Pier and the half-naked freaks on the P.B. boardwalk and your day is starting just fine.
723 Felspar St., Pacific Beach, 858-270-5736, jrdn.com
Hudson Valley Duck Confit @ Mister A’s. I love the water fowl. It’s dark meatiness. Its natural fattiness. And confit—cooking the animal in its own fat, originally designed as a means of preservation before the age of refrigerators—is the ultimate treatment. My wife, on the other hand, hates duck. Irks her. And she loved this at Mister A’s, with such a crispy, crusty skin and moist meat. Don’t ignore the duck-and-Savoy cabbage strudel that lies underneath.
2550 5th Ave., San Diego, 619-239-1377, bertrandatmisteras.com
Chino Farms Celebration Supper Club
July 7, 21st and 28th, 2012
Whisknladle’s supper club events have proven to have staying power. No surprise. It’s one of the best restaurants in the city, and these dinners cultivate a crowd who loves food and doesn’t mind mingling with other humans, family-style. Sure, Chino Farm is nothing new. But it’s still some of the most succulent bits of local earth—and chef Ryan Johnston should do it justice. $75
1044 Wall St., La Jollla, CA 92039
Dueling Rabbit Dinner
July 17, 2012
Chef Mario Cassineri is an ambitious talent with deep Italian roots. For this “duel,” he’ll take on Chef Stefano Ceresoli of Solare Restaurant. Everything they create—over 8 courses—will be anchored by rabbit (think of it as European chicken). $65 (wine pairings $20 more)
425 Island Ave, Downtown
Baja Chef’s Dinner Series
No one is fusing the cultures of Baja with San Diego’s as well as El Take It Easy right now. Their “Baja Chefs Dinner Series” first splashed down with Javier Plascenscia. Now the resto—whose menu was a collab between chef Max Bonacci and Baja toque Jair Tellez (owner/chef of Laja)—brings Drew Deckman. Deckman’s from Georgia originally, but got a Michelin star in Germany before landing in San Jose Del Cabo where he runs Deckman’s San Jose. With El Take It Easy’s mescal menu, it’s like a night in Baja minus the border agents. $45
El Take It Easy
3926 30th Street, San Diego