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Street Cred

Little Italy's newest restaurant looks to quiet the critic in us all


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MonelloThe building smells like herbs. To make Monello’s sweet vermouth, mixologist Jennifer Queen needs 26 of ’em. “My wife’s 69-year-old mother loved it,” says owner Guido Nistri, “then she told me it was a poor person’s drink.” The Milan-bred owners of Bencotto have opened Monello, next door. “This has more of a bar scene,” says Nistri. It’s Italian street food—from the shaved young cheese (raspadura) popular among Italy’s rustic poor to mini-calzones (panzerotti) inspired by famed Milanese street vendor Guiseppina Luina. As for chef Fabrizio’s carbonara spaghetti? Go—now. 750 West Fir Street, Little Italy

 

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