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Best Things I Ate This Month: January 2015

Loup Du Mer at Bijou, Spicy Pappardelle Bolognese at Double Standard, Cronut at Nutmeg Bakery & Cafe

By Troy Johnson

Best Things I Ate This Month: January 2015

Best Things I Ate This Month: January 2015

Loup Du Mer @ Bijou

Bijou isn’t anyone’s idea of a hip, modern restaurant. It’s done in the Old World European style. Some might call that a tad gaudy. But the classic French bistro menu is a collaboration between James Beard nominee William Bradley (Addison) and chef de cuisine Sean Gethin (ex-Wynn Vegas, Gary Danko). It’s fairly fantastic food. This loup du mer (European sea bass) is an example, with skin that crackles like sugar glass and served Provencal style with tomatoes, garlic, onion, etc.

1205 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.750.3695

 

Best Things I Ate This Month: January 2015

Best Things I Ate This Month: January 2015

Spicy Pappardelle Bolognese @ Double Standard

Double Standard took over the huge, airy, natural light-ridden corner space in Downtown vacated by Counter Burger. The owners did a bang-up design job on the place, using meat hooks for chandeliers and creating an Astroturf-lined patio with wildly ornate furniture that makes it look like the tea party at Alice in Wonderland. They originally hired a big-name chef from L.A., but that didn’t pan out. So they handed the reigns to young Chris Gentile, and the kid’s got talent. He last worked at Gabardine with Brian Malarkey and interned under great southern chef Sean Brock (Husk). His spicy pappardelle Bolognese with housemade sausage is an immediate favorite, the secret being a little orange juice in the sauce.

695 6th Ave., Downtown, 619.269.9676

 

Best Things I Ate This Month: January 2015

Best Things I Ate This Month: January 2015

Cronut @ Nutmeg Bakery & Cafe

North County inland is still a gourmet desert (which makes no sense in light of the well-traveled, expendable income in areas like Scripps Ranch and Poway). But Nutmeg is one of the bright spots filling that hole—a largely organic, healthy spin on gourmet from a chef who worked under Carl Schroeder (Market). At a recent visit we tried their cinnamon and sugar-dusted cronut (2013’s inescapable food trend) and it was one of the better flakey, moist versions we’ve tasted.

12640 Sabre Springs Pkwy, Sabre Springs, 858.486.8863

 

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