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Best Things I Ate This Month: October 2016

Green Eggs and Ham at Searsucker, Heirloom Carrots at Cowboy Star, and Foie Gras and Smoked Duck Breast Canape at Crudo by Pascal Lorange


Green Eggs and Ham @ Searsucker

Oh, lord. This thing is naughty. Brioche toast acts as the buttery foundation, and then tender pieces of pork belly are stacked like edible Lincoln Logs atop. Add a poached egg, hollandaise sauce, balsamic vinegar and serrano aioli, and this is the very definition of brunch food. Decadent, irresponsible, delicious.

611 Fifth Ave., Downtown, searsucker.com.


“Heirloom Carrots” @ Cowboy Star

This shows why Cowboy Star in East Village has been my favorite steakhouse for years. They do far more than stick tabs of butter on a good piece of meat. If you’re looking to try the best piece of steak you’ve maybe (most likely) ever had, try their Hokkaido Wagyu New York steak in a sauce made from house-cured coppa and black truffle. If you’re looking for something truly unique, try this—heirloom carrots with fried chicken skin and burrata ice cream. The chicken skin is dusted with Japanese binchotan coal ash, and the burrata ice cream is shockingly delicious.

640 Tenth Ave., Downtown, thecowboystar.com.


Foie Gras and Smoked Duck Breast Canape @ Crudo by Pascal Lorange

Pascal Lorange is no joke. The chef worked his way through Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe before becoming the personal chef for Julio Iglesias. He’s cooked for heads of state, shimmering Vegas royalty, and now he’s cooking for the Carmel Valley bedroom community at Crudo. He didn’t slap his name on it and leave. He’s in the kitchen. And this canape shows what he can do—smoked duck breast, luscious foie gras, fig chutney, scallions and soy balsamic on toast. Don’t go there expecting sushi, or crudo in the traditional sense. This is like Mediterranean food in crudo form. Excellent.

5965 Village Way, Carmel Valley, crudopl.com.

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