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A Mexican Fish Story |
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A FRIEND SUGGESTS LORETO for a much-needed weekend escape. The Baja desert in the middle of summer? To other friends, it doesn’t sound too smart. But I remember my grandfather telling me it’s the best time for fishing.
The Aeroméxico flight arrives. Minutes later, from my room at the Camino Real Hotel, I have a breathtaking view of the stunning contrast between a vibrant blue sea and the colorful Baja desert.
Blended Margarita in hand, I kick back in the shade of a palapa. The Sea of Cortéz stretches out before me. I laugh to myself at the thought of California being established by an ass.
Bear with me.
In 1697, Jesuit priests, led by Juan Maria Salvatierra, came to the area with the image of the Virgin of Our Lady of Loreto strapped to a burro. They picked an appropriate spot to set up. But during the night, the burro with the Virgin broke free. It traveled many miles to this protected bay.
One can imagine what the priests thought about the burro as they led him back. That night, the burro broke free again, and traveled to the same place. They took this as a sign from God and established Loreto. Hence, California’s first European settlement and capital was built on the spot chosen by the burro.
The Virgin still resides on the altar in the mission. From here, Father Junípero Serra set off in the 18th century to establish the missions in the northern reaches of California, which has become today’s state of California.
I HEAD TO TASTE RESTAURANT. It’s best known as the only air-conditioned restaurant in town. They serve good steaks, and the seafood dip is excellent. The few occupied tables hold fishermen—in town for the annual “Fishin’ for the Mission” tournament, which raises money to help the poor of Loreto and surrounding areas.
At la madrugada (the eloquent Spanish word for daybreak), Captain Francisco of the Baja Big Fish Company arrives in a small, traditional, open fishing boat called a panga. The sun peeks over Isla Carmen, the barrier island that protects Loreto Bay, when we encounter a playful school of dolphins. The early-morning sun glistens off their backs. They ride our bow wake, and periodically launch themselves out of a mirror-smooth sea. I sit in the very front of the boat, getting splashed, and thinking it doesn’t get much better than this.
On the far side of Isla Carmen, we spot sea birds feeding. Within minutes, my line slowly pays out. Francisco thinks it might be a very small dorado. Then the line goes taut and my pole bends sharply. We’re surprised when the sea erupts with a jumping sailfish. The fish throws its head violently and then crashes back into the water.
I am high with adrenaline as I fight the fish. Though I plan to release it, unfortunately, the fish dies in the fight. So I take it in—to be smoked. A few hours later, I enjoy another spectacular sailfish fight. This one we release successfully.
Before heading back, I ask to cruise by Isla Coronado. The island is home to a sea lion colony, beautiful beaches with accompanying aqua waters and coral reefs with water so clear you can see the colorful fish swimming below.
You just can’t bring your overpacked, stress-ridden schedule to sleepy Loreto. The next morning, as our plane climbs over spectacular Loreto Bay, I am already planning my next trip here.
In the end, my friends were wrong. I, like California’s furry founder, am not such a dumb ass after all.
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