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Las Ventanas in Los Cabos, Mexico, rolls out the red carpet for guests of the ultimate luxury retreat
“LAS VENTANAS? That’s where the celebrities stay! Can I get your autograph?”
The taxi drivers at San José del Cabo airport set the stage for my stay at Las Ventanas al Paraiso, the five-diamond Rosewood Resort on the coast of Mexico’s Sea of Cortéz. I sidestep the cabbies and walk outside into the midday heat to meet my driver. Riding in my private Mercedes, it’s hard not to feel like a celebrity. I settle into the backseat with a chilled bottle of water, taking in the desert landscape. I can feel the stress melting away as the car window frames unspoiled views of saguaro cactus and dramatic rock formations.
Our car pulls up to the entrance, and the wrought-iron entry gate inches open, as if to say, “Take your time; relax.” A handful of staff members greet me by name, introduce themselves and hand me a Margarita. Taking in the views from the open-air lobby, which looks out on the beach, I’m beginning to see why this isn’t your average ultra-luxury resort. 
Cynthia, my private butler, escorts me to my oceanfront suite (every suite comes with complimentary butler and concierge service). En route, Cynthia offers an informal tour of the resort, stopping at the spa, several of the infinity pools, the new tequila-and-ceviche bar, the poolside grill and the open-air restaurant and lounge. We cover the length of the property in 10 minutes. The resort’s intimate size makes guests feel like they’re crashing at a friend’s house—if your friend happens to be the owner of an immaculate beachfront property equipped with a staff trained to anticipate your every whim.
Nature is the focus of the Las Ventanas experience. The design by original owner Javier Burillo Azcarraga was meant to be sensuous and romantic, with very few hard angles or edges—in Javier’s terms, “shaped with the curves of a woman’s body.” The effect is peaceful and natural, the sensation of drifting on a wave. Rather than forcing a tropical environment of palm trees and banana plants onto the desert terrain, the landscape design incorporates local vegetation. Various species of cactus, agave and aloe line hand-laid stone pathways, while white-sand gardens are raked daily, giving the feel of a zen garden. Juxtaposed against the sapphire-blue Sea of Cortéz, the resort design balances the purifying warmth of the desert with the soothing cool of the sea.
Stepping through an oversized door and into my suite, I see that the local terrain and Mexican culture also inspire the interior décor. Stone floors, open-beam dark-wood ceilings and built-in pebble headboards are complemented by a telescope for whale-watching and stargazing. Only an infinity pool, staffed by a butler, interrupts my view of the beach.
Later that evening, I sit on my patio trying to pinpoint what induces the sense of total serenity. I’ve stayed at luxury resorts before, but I’ve never felt so at home. And just then, Cynthia pops by to check in on me. “Buenas tardes, Miss Wendy. How has your day been? Do you need anything?” I assure her I’m well. As she takes her leave, it hits me: The resort is free of the usual hotel clamor—housekeeping, room service delivery people, maintenance, bellhops.
I discover on a resort tour the following day that there are underground tunnels running the length of the property. Staff members shuttle housekeeping goods, tools and luggage beneath buildings, out of view of hotel guests. Food and drinks travel on custom white bicycles. In conceptualizing the resort, attention was paid to creating a quiet atmosphere that’s the antithesis of a bustling hotel. There is no “Las Ventanas” sign greeting guests at the property entrance; there isn’t a check-in desk. Rooms are discreetly labeled with suite numbers, and a beaded necklace hangs instead of the “
Do Not Disturb” placard.
EXECUTIVE CHEF FABRICE GUISSET stands behind the bar in the herb garden, enlightening me on the intricacies of heirloom tomatoes and Baja’s burgeoning culinary scene. It had been tempting to ignore activities beyond lying poolside, but I willed myself to check out a cooking class. More of a demonstration than a class (I only have to sip champagne and watch; chef Guisset does all the cooking), I learn about the chef’s efforts to source organic ingredients grown locally. The lamb comes from La Paz, and he takes his chefs to farms in Milaflores, where they get organic produce.
Guisset believes Baja is on the brink of becoming a top culinary destination. His face lights up at the prospect: “It reminds me of Provence. Between the wine, olive oil and organic fruits and vegetables, it’s coming into its own.” I ask about the famed vanilla grown in Mexico and receive a lesson not only in vanilla pods and extract but also in the variety of foods that come from the region of Veracruz.
It isn’t until later, in conversation with the resort’s purchasing director, that the idea dawns on me to visit Veracruz some day to try these foods for myself. I share what I think is a brilliant plan with her. She replies, “You don’t need to do that; we can have anything you want flown in.” 
Over lunch at the beachfront Sea Grill, I watch staffers move about in the sand, arranging plush loungers and digging out fire pits. The previous night’s wedding party had requested a “camping party,” complete with s’mores and campfire sing-alongs. (Las Ventanas has a Department of Romance to cater to such requests.) The wedding was a three-day affair, complete with a dinner on the plaza one night, the wedding ceremony the next and the campfire party the next.
As I’m packing to leave, I’m hard pressed to remember a time when I’ve felt so relaxed. I’m sent off with hugs and well wishes from staff. I climb back into the Mercedes, and as we drive off, I turn for one last look to see everyone waving goodbye. The gate once again inches open slowly, but this time I can hear it saying, “Are you sure you want to leave?”
For the first time in four days, I hear the word “no.”
If You Go
AeroMéxico and Alaska Airlines fly direct from San Diego to San José Cabo. Las Ventanas offers airport transportation services, or taxicabs are available upon arrival. Winter rates range from $515 (junior suite) to $3,800 (two-bedroom spa suite) per night. Visit lasventanas.com or call 888-ROSEWOOD for package rates and reservations.
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