Monkey Around in Central America

Destination: Nicaragua

THE VAN BOBBED and dipped and jerked as it lumbered through Nicaragua’s midsection. Small children carrying dirt-filled shovels ran alongside the vehicle, asking for compensation in their vain attempt to fill the divots that slowed our progress.

My companions and I, on a trip that explored the country’s fine exports, were on our way from Esteli, home of the famous Padron Cigar Factory, to Chinandega to visit the Flor de Cana rum distillery. The potholed short cut between Matagalpa and Leon was a surprise, since our first few days had found well-maintained and navigable highways.

That morning we had sadly left Selva Negra, a resort and fully sustainable organic coffee plantation that runs up the side of a mountain and into a richly diverse rain forest, where howler monkeys announce the beginning of each day and ghost-like fog rolls in, often engulfing diners on the restaurant patio. Guests stay in individual bungalows nestled among the verdure, dining in the chalet-style restaurant overlooking a duck- and lily-dotted lake.

My morning began with a hike up the “fountain of youth,” one of the trails winding through the lush forest. The tricky path tested our endurance but was well worth it: We spotted a troop of the elusive monkeys, several rare species of birds and what looked like a sloth lounging high in the branches.

After visiting the quaint, colonial town of Leon we headed to the coast for a little R&R. Again the van jerked and bobbed, but this time it was on the dirt road heading to Marina Puesta del Sol, a lovely hotel and marina with 20 oversized suites, all of which open to the bay and marina. The property, as remote as it is stunning, is a perfect spot for a destination wedding, a romantic getaway or a stopping point for boaters or surfers.

I immediately jumped in the infinity pool to wash off the day and then met my companions for drinks and dinner. On the veranda, San Cristobal, one of the country’s seven active volcanoes, was visible on the horizon.

Nicaragua has two seasons: wet and dry. During the wet season, May through November, a comfortable, humid haze in the lowlands blocks the scorching sun and often burns off later, revealing a brilliant night sky. The dry season is hotter and makes for picturesque days.

If You Go

Continental Airlines offers flights through Houston for about $700 round trip. For reservations and information on Selva Negra, go to selvanegra.com. For reservations and information on Marina Puesta del Sol, visit marinapuestadelsol.com. For general information on Nicaragua, go to visit-nicaragua.com.