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EXCITEMENT MINGLES with anxiety as I await my turn with the Polynesian tattoo artist. I'm sitting in the lobby of the Manea Spa at the Pearl Resort & Spa on the island of Moorea, 11 miles off the Tahiti coastline. In an effort to provide guests with the most authentic experience of French Polynesia - where the word "tattoo" is said to have originated centuries ago - the resort employs a native artist in its spa.
Historically, the sacred ritual of bodymarking symbolized rites of passage, island origin and social hierarchy. Today, Polynesian tattoos provide another way to adorn the human canvas; they reflect a fascination with this exotic culture and setting. Thousands of tourists leave here each year with the island spirit under their skin - literally.
Leafing through pages of sketches by Herenui Teriitehau, I'm still undecided on a tattoo. But not because of lack of inspiration.
I arrived in French Polynesia a week ago via Papeete, Tahitiís capital city. Commonly referred to as "Tahiti and her islands," French Polynesia encompasses 118 islands stretching 250,000 square miles in the turquoise waters of the South Pacific. I follow bleary-eyed honeymooners off the plane; we're greeted with the heavy tropical night, infused with the sweet scent of the ubiquitous tiare flower. Native Polynesians welcome us with "Ia orana" ("Hello") and drape flower and shell necklaces around the neck of every arriving guest.
Maybe a tiare or hibiscus flower on the ankle.
Tahiti serves as a quick overnight stop; the next morning I board a 50- minute Air Tahiti flight to Tikehau, an island in the Tuamotu atolls. From the sky, Tikehau looks like a large crater in the sea: A thin strand of pink sand rising just a few feet encircles a large lagoon shimmering in a kaleidoscope of blue. We land at the Tikehau airport - a hut at the end of a single landing strip - in the village of Tuherahera. A representative from Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort & Spa greets us with the customary flower necklace and leads us to a waiting flatbed truck.
We turn onto a narrow alley leading to a concrete dock, where there's a boat waiting for us. Moments later, we're cutting through sapphire-blue water, the Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort materializing on the razor-thin horizon separating sky from sea. More than a dozen beach bungalows with sun-bleached, palm-thatched roofs dot the shoreline. A host leads me down a meandering dock to one of the resort's overwater bungalows. The surprisingly spacious, deluxe bungalow opens up to a large private deck.
A large window in the middle of the bungalow floor frames a pink coral bed (responsible for the island's salmon-colored beaches) and dozens of tropical fish species zipping in and out of the porous labyrinth. During a visit in the late 1980s, Jacques Cousteau said Tikehau's lagoon life was the richest in the South Pacific. Its Tuheiava Pass is a world-class diving spot, where intrepid souls can swim with reef sharks, barracudas, sea turtles and eels. I prefer to encounter Tikehau's plentiful wildlife from the comfort of a resort kayak. During a sunset tour of the lagoon, I glimpse manta rays, and gray-tipped sharks glide by just a few feet away.
Perhaps a sea turtle or gecko on the shoulder blade.
After two perfectly languorous days spent exploring the lagoon and combing the shell-flecked beaches and coconut groves, I board a small Air Tahiti plane bound for Tahiti, en route to the Moorea Pearl Beach Resort & Spa.
Dubbed "The Magical Island," Moorea is 12 miles across the Sea of the Moon from Tahiti - a 25-minute catamaran ride (eight minutes by plane) from the main island. Jagged peaks draped in emerald form the island's center. Oponohu Bay and Cook's Bay carve into the shore; a gentle reef break encircles the island in a ring of turquoise.
The best way to see Moorea is via scooter. Moments after checking into our simple yet stylish garden room, we're whizzing down the narrow, two-lane asphalt road that hugs the 39-mile perimeter of the heart-shaped island. We reach Cook's Bay and hook onto a dirt road that leads to the interior of the island and up to Belvedere lookout, reputed to offer the best view in French Polynesia. The north side of the island stretches out at our feet: A pineapple plantation occupies the valley below; sailboats bob off the azure shoreline.
Making our way back down to sea level, we pass the 1,000-year-old temple ruins of Marae Tetiiroa. For another authentic cultural experience of French Polynesia, visit the Tiki Theatre Village. Locals give demonstrations on pearl oyster farming, nose flute playing (yes, nose flute), tool crafting, clothing production and Polynesian dance.
Love the intricate tiki motifs.
Natives tell us the place to eat is Alfredo's, a casual restaurant serving up the freshest local seafood and pasta dishes. There are numerous quality dining options on the island - Italian, French (crepes!), Chinese. Many restaurants will send a car to pick you up for dinner, then return you to your hotel at no additional charge.
I browse roadside boutiques selling the famous Tahitian black pearls, the colorful pareu (traditional wrap), coral jewelry, coconut-derived wares and other island mementos.
And if you're shopping for a more, shall we say, permanent souvenir, you won't find a more capable, knowledgeable artist than the Pearl's Herenui. As for my eventual tattoo pick, I think I'll leave Mom guessing.
If You Go
Air Tahiti Nui offers daily nonstop service with 13 weekly flights from LAX to Faaía International Airport in Papeete, Tahiti. For information on schedules and fares, call 877-824- 4846 or visit airtahitinui-usa.com. For inter-island flight schedules and reservations, visit Air Tahiti's Web site (airtahiti.aero/home.php). Lowseason rates at the Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort range $380 to $700 a night. The nightly rate for a gardenview room at Moorea Pearl Resort & Spa runs $270 during low season; a premium overwater bungalow costs $620. Guests may reserve time with a tattoo artist, either in the Manea Spa or in the privacy of their room. For information on Pearl Resorts & Spa properties throughout French Polynesia, visit pearlresorts.com.
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