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Big Adventures on Hawaii's Big Island |
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My teenage son looks incredulous. laughs with disbelief when I tell him we plan to snorkel in the warm Pacific, go horseback riding and take a helicopter tour of the Big Island. He’s seen my agonizing fear on the kiddie-size Ferris wheel at the Del Mar Fair. He’s watched me enjoy our pool by creeping down the steps, slowly submerging my body to the shoulders and gradually swimming a few laps—without ever getting my head wet.
But this is Hawaii—the trip of a lifetime—and I’m ready to throw caution to the wind. Sort of. At least my husband is here for moral support.
We’re staying at the Mauna Kea Resort, a 20-minute drive north along the Kona Kohala Coast from the Kona airport. Built in 1965 by Laurence S. Rockefeller, the resort got a major renovation in 1995. The hotel’s art collection features Hawaiian quilts, temple toys from Nepal and religious artifacts from Thailand.
Mauna Kea and its nearby sister hotel, Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, boast two of the top 10 golf courses in the world. There are fine restaurants at several resorts in the area, but the Mauna Kea’s Saturday-night clambake is a seafood buffet that rivals the one at San Diego’s Four Seasons Resort Aviara.
The Mauna Kea’s natural white-sand beach (voted fifth best in the world by the Travel Channel) is edged by warm blue water that seduces even the most timid. We rent one set of snorkeling gear (for my husband) and a body board (for me). We swim a short distance to the coral reef. Yes, my head is above the water as I cling to the board. My husband wears the mask and fins. He checks out the ocean floor, all the while keeping one arm on the body board.
We get to the reef, with all its beautiful fish and coral. There are also wild sea turtles. My husband takes off the mask, spits in it to keep it clear and says it’s my turn. Showing scant fear, I slip on the mask, put the tube in my mouth and—yes, son—stick my face in the water. It’s beautiful down there. And I don’t have to dive all the way underwater to say I’ve snorkeled.
The hotel makes arrangements for us to go to one of its stables for horseback riding. It’s a pleasant drive east through the town of Waimea, a great place to pick up snacks, sundries and libations. At the ranch, a guide inquires about our riding abilities. I give him an “I’m new at this, go easy on me” look. He saddles up Whitey, an old mare who couldn’t trot if she tried. I mount Whitey, praying silently. My husband’s big, black horse is snorting and stomping its feet.
I learn how to slow down and stop a horse (the most important part). Finally, we take off. As I follow the others across a green meadow, I take in the open space and beauty of the Big Island. For a brief moment, I imagine how thrilling it would be to spur Whitey and go galloping up and over never-ending hills. The moment is fun, but the thought passes.
The last challenge is the most formidable—the helicopter ride. Activities like this are why tranquilizers were invented. I have one in my purse. But I’m determined not to use it.
Arriving at the Black Beauty helipad, I’m calm. A 45-minute ride can’t be too terror-inducing. We watch a safety demonstration, similar to the ones on commercial airlines. I hear about the chance for problems—mechanical malfunction, turbulence, rain and other unknowns. While I consider this, the announcement comes: We’re on the special two-hour tour. I’d already stowed away my purse containing mother’s little helper. Deep breath. More prayers. And away we go.
Easy to say later, but the helicopter tour is a must-do. The Big Island seems almost unreal—there’s an active volcano spewing lava into the ocean, and visible lava flows. It’s like looking at another planet. The tour also goes east over lush plantations and along the northern coast where the waterfalls are the highest in Hawaii.
Touchdown at the helipad is a mixed blessing. Though I was awed by the beauty, my nerve had started to falter. But my missions are all accomplished.
If You Go:
Direct service on Hawaiian Airlines from San Diego to Honolulu is $500 and up; the connecting flight to Kona is $100 and up. Accommodations at the Mauna Kea Resort hotel start at $350 a night. For more information, call 800-882-6060, or go to www.princeresortshawaii.com.
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