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We dress up for dinner. Nouveau-style restaurant l’Ecrivain, one of Dublin’s finest, serves French fare with an Irish bent. Parsnip soup and Angus beef draw my attention. So does a specialty drink menu offering a Writer’s Block (cognac,Bailey’s Irish Cream, Tia Maria and Southern Comfort) that’s “guaranteed to provide inspiration.”
Duly inspired after dinner, the unanimous decision of our travel group is to sample Dublin’s most famous attraction: its pubs. My predicament is the dinner attire. Pub-hopping in a suit? How touristy, I worry. How un-Irish.
My fear proves unfounded at O’Donoghue’s. Here, an improvised collection of musicians jams. The “craic and ceol” (good times and music) of strangers fill the smoky, dark room. One by one or in pairs, patrons step forward to introduce themselves and welcome the visiting Americans. It’s a phenomenon that’s repeated at pub after pub. The Guinness comes out of some pub taps at room temperature or chilled—your option—but the friendly nature of Irish denizens is always served with a warm smile.
Three paragraphs into this story, you’ve probably already observed a predilection toward alcohol. Indeed, the imbibing begins even before touching down on the Emerald Isle. Flight attendants on Aer Lingus keep me amply supplied with Cork Dry Gin. Often, they have two or three mini-bottles lined up on my tray—lest I go dry for even a short spell. The nonstop flight (from Los Angeles) is 12 hours, so a spirits-induced power nap is made more comfortable by the blue duvets available in Aer Lingus’ premium class.
My resting place in Dublin is the five-star Merrion Hotel. The façade of this 146-room property isn’t overwhelming—it looks just like four side-by-side Georgian townhomes. That’s what it was before a 1997 conversion into one of the top hotels in the city.
The Merrion is home to Ireland’s only two-star Michelin restaurant, called Patrick Guilbaud, which serves contemporary local cuisine. On the more casual side, there’s the hotel’s Cellar Bar, converted from an 18th-century wine vault. Its rough stone walls are still intact. Sitting next to the reconditioned stovetop once used by the staff of the Duke of Wellington, inspiration hits me once again. Sipping Irish coffee, my dining companions and I compose limericks about each other. When in Ireland...
A day trip by car the following afternoon takes us through the town of Dalkey. This Dublin Harbor village is where the artistic community takes refuge. Sean Penn and Sean Connery have homes here. So do Bono and The Edge, lead singer and lead guitarist in rock super-group U2. According to our guide, the Irish are famous for their ability to ignore celebrity in their midst. Thus, the allure for the rich, famous and reclusive.
Our driving destination is a country estate in the mountains of Wicklow. Powerscourt was built as a castle in the late 12th century. Several renovations have made it one of the most stunning mansions in the country. It stands on 47 acres of gardens—each greener than the last—and is open for public tours.
I don’t want to leave Ireland—and I vow to return soon—but plans have been laid.
There’s no mistaking the culture change from Ireland to England. For instance, if you happen to stay at The Ritz London, like me, you’ll feel compelled (or be told, like me) to put on your fanciest togs and never take them off—even after turning in
If the urge can be answered by your bank account, swing into the Ritz Fine Jewellery store. “Putting on the Ritz” might entail purchasing an emerald necklace that can be yours for roughly $350,000 (U.S.). If you feel like parting with only a few thousand dollars, look into the white gold cufflinks or the yellow gold Retro Ritz pink tourmaline pendant earrings. The
131-room Ritz has been impressing visitors since 1906. Afternoon tea here is served in three daily seatings in the Palm Court. The silver teapots, gilded trellises and marble columns have provided ambience for the likes of King Edward VII, Sir Winston Churchill and Noel Coward.
The hotel’s restaurant is considered one of the most elegant in the world. Jackets and ties are required for dinner and lunch. I had the luck of staying on a Friday night, when restaurant evenings are given over to dinner-dances. A swing band, impeccably mannered service and light glancing off a garland circle of chandeliers creates a magical feeling.
You could make a case for never leaving the splendor of the Ritz. But the hotel is conveniently located in the center of London, so a walking tour is in order. I’ve been to London several times—but much like New York, you can wander just a few streets from places you’ve explored before and have a totally new experience.
The Royal Opera House is a must-see. More than just a place to listen to classical music, this is a destination in itself, with its bar, restaurant and great aerial views of the city.
Another nearby attraction is Covent Garden. What began during the reign of Henry VIII as a place where nuns sold produce has become a bustling scene where street performers abound. Yes, the street performers are often opera singers or classic instrumentalists. Covent Garden was the inspirational setting for My Fair Lady.
Well, I could have walked all night. But the weekend expired, and return-trip British Airway tickets beckoned. I wasn’t really tired on the flight home. But I had to test out their business-class seats that fully recline. Like the Ritz, not too shabby.
If you go:
The Merrion Hotel is on Upper Merrion Street. Rooms range from $266 to $888 for the Lord Fitzwilliam Suite. For hotel information, call 353-1-603-0600, or go to www.merrionhotel.com. For information on Dublin attractions, take a look at www. visitdublin.com.
The Ritz London is at 150 Piccadilly. Rooms run from $540 to $2,860 for the Berkeley Suite. For hotel information, call 877-748-9536. For more information on London attractions, check the Web site at www.londontouristboard.com.
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