Desert Renaissance

The multimillion-dollar renovations of two iconic resorts and a burgeoning culinary scene return Palm Springs to the swanky splendor of its mid-century heyday

By JULIA BEESON POLLORENO

A BLEARY-EYED production assistant sets his walkie-talkie on the bar and orders a round of Red Bull–and–vodkas. I’m seated in The Purple Palm, the poolside restaurant of the Colony Palms Hotel, watching the swirl of activity as a film crew prepares for the all-night shoot. At check-in, I’d been told a “B” movie is being filmed, starring a few actors of relative obscurity. Like the guy who played the bartender in Anchorman with Will Ferrell. You know, who also played a fugitive opposite Nicholas Cage in Con Air. Yeah, that guy. The whole scene is a fitting introduction to my weekend visit to Palm Springs, which first garnered attention as the desert playground of Old Hollywood film stars——Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Elizabeth Taylor, Elvis Presley——and their ilk.

Built in 1936 by Detroit mobster Al Wertheimer, the Colony Palms Hotel (then called The Colonial House) has a colorful history worthy of a movie script. A front for a brothel and gambling house, it was sold in 1951 to Robert Howard, whose grandfather owned the Thoroughbred champion Sea Biscuit. Renamed Howard Manor, it became a retreat for Los Angeles’ rich and famous, including Bob Hope and Lucille Ball. Ownership changed hands several times until 2004, when it was bought by the Pacifica Capital Group. The 57-room hotel reopened in 2007 after a $17 million renovation, debuting The Purple Palm gourmet restaurant and bar, a spa and fitness center.

The property’s original Spanish revival design was preserved in the renovation, as were the crimson concrete floors in the guest rooms. In addition to the 42 standard rooms, there are eight casitas with private patios and outdoor bathtubs, five junior suites with their own entrances, one presidential suite and an owner’s suite. The interior design melds vintage Hollywood glamour—— think black-and-white fashion photography on the walls and crisp stripe accents (the chimney in my room is painted in broad black-and-white stripes)——and an exotic flair, reflected by the large headboard covered in an Uzbeki suzani, a colorful hand-embroidered tapestry. Hi-tech touches include in-room wireless Internet service, an iPod docking station and high-definition flat-screen TV. But it’s easy to forgo the flat-screen when the spa beckons.

Taking its interior-design influence from Morocco, the intimate spa offers a variety of customizable facials, massages and other treatments. Try the 50-minute Detox Facial ($120) featuring natural products from NYC-based Malin + Goetz. Afterward, lounge poolside and watch the late-afternoon desert sky——framed by the swaying silhouettes of palm trees and the surrounding San Jacinto Mountains——turn a purplish pink.

It’s a scene that’s re-created on the dining room wall of The Purple Palm, where chef James Corwell cooks up Mediterranean cuisine featuring seasonal ingredients from the local farmers’ market. Out-of-towners and locals alike head here for a quality meal with equally good people-watching. Some nights, patrons may even find themselves on a live movie set.

JUST DOWN THE ROAD, Riviera Resort & Spa is another recently revamped landmark that’s injecting some serious swank into old Palm Springs. Sinatra and his Rat Pack counterparts partied here in the ’60s, stoking its reputation as the desert’s hottest destination. Following a $70 million renovation of the 24-acre property, completed in October by Seattle-based owner Noble House Hotels & Resorts, Riviera surpasses the lofty reputation of its heyday, introducing a posh playground unlike any other.

The architect/design team, which included San Diego’s Rossi Architecture, was shooting for a big “wow” factor. They didn’t disappoint. Stepping into the lobby portico is like tumbling into an Alice in Wonderland portal——you land in a vivid Technicolor daydream that is whimsical, at times abstract, always intriguing. Behind the small reception desk, wall-length lattice cutouts of desert rose bursts are backlit in tangerine. Large Turkish ottomans are flanked by 10-foot-tall metallic candelabras and oversized wingback chairs. Shimmering Andy Warhol–inspired portraits of former celebrity guests——Marilyn Monroe, Cher, Dean Martin and others——line the walls of the lobby promenade, which also houses billiard tables and cushy lounge areas. Mirror-clad walls reflect a dazzling array of color——yellow, orange, fuchsia, green, gold.

The 406 guestrooms, including 45 luxury suites, also reflect retro Hollywood glamour with a contemporary twist. My standard room had a separate living area with cool, mid-century-modern furnishings and décor (love the pop art, orange accents and brown geometric-print carpeting), spacious marble bathroom and a private patio overlooking the pool, the hub of the resort. You can reserve a private cabaña, but the people-watching is prime when you’re seated beside one of the fire pits near the Bikini Bar. Skirting the pool, the resort’s 12,000-square-foot SpaTerre offers treatments inspired by Indonesian, Thai and Balinese rituals. Its coed Buddha Lounge is a peaceful spot to relax and enjoy the large Jacuzzi or Watsu pool.

Another resort feature that simply sparkles is Circa 59, Riviera’s signature restaurant. Billed as a traditional steakhouse with a contemporary, ocean- inspired twist, the ultrachic eatery serves up inventive raw-bar dishes such as the oysters Rockefeller with spinach, fennel and Pernod hollandaise. Diners choose between composed dishes or assembling their own plate from executive chef Adam Votaw’s inventive menu: Will it be the Nova Scotia halibut or the Kobe flatiron? Oven-roasted or grilled? Topped with lobster truffle fondue or Roquefort-mustard butter?

For a post-dinner nightcap, head over to sidebar, where the resident mixologist creates cocktails, and patrons stargaze on the outdoor patio. Or hit up the Starlite Lounge adjacent to the lobby for a clubbier atmosphere, complete with deejay spinning downbeat tunes.

MORE THAN EVER, visitors to Palm Springs are coming for the food. Never before have there been so many sophisticated culinary options for discerning foodies. Located uptown on the former Cary Grant estate, Copley’s on Palm Canyon is one of the area’s more popular fine-dining restaurants.

Today, owner-chef Andrew Copley is conducting one of his regular cooking classes on the outdoor patio for an audience of nearly 40. Seated at my table is a couple in their sixties who flew in from Idaho just to eat here today. Everyone watches intently as Copley, who was trained in his native England and has traveled the world honing his craft, goes to work on the appetizer——sugarcane champagne shrimp with passionfruit dressing. All the while, he answers questions and engages the audience with his extensive culinary knowhow and affable wit. As he places a shrimp skewer on the grill, servers appear with the already-prepared dish, and manager/co-owner Greg Butterfield pours a perfectly paired wine. Copley next prepares the entrée——charred sashimi-grade tuna with sweet onions, cucumber and ponzu dressing. Another round of dishes emerges from the kitchen, and more wine is poured. The three-hour class concludes with a coconut tapioca pudding——and hearty applause for the chef.

Spooning up the last bite of pudding, I’m already plotting my return visit for the 2009 Palm Springs Desert Resorts Restaurant Week (May 31–June 19), when Copley and the region’s other great chefs serve up a three-course menu at the fixed price of either $24 or $36 per person (tax, beverages and gratuity are not included). It’s a perfect invitation to sample more of the culinary scene in a town brimming with new flavor.

If You Go

Guestrooms at the Colony Palms Hotel (800-557-2187; colonypalmshotel.com) range $209-$299; casitas and suites range $359-$2,000. Room rates at Riviera Resort & Spa (760-327-8311; psriviera.com) start at $289 for a standard guestroom and go to $4,800 for the presidential suite. For a schedule of Andrew Copley’s cooking classes, which cost $90, and information about his restaurant, call 760-327-9555 or go to copleyspalmsprings.com. For details on Palm Springs Desert Resorts Restaurant Week, call 858-523-9020 or visit the Web site at palmspringsrestaurantweek.com.