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Mexico's Wine Country

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IT WAS DURING a reconnaissance mission for alternatives to the Tijuana border crossing that I discovered the Valle de Guadalupe, northern Baja’s wine country. A scenic, 90-minute drive south of the U.S. border, the Ruta del Vino (Mexican Route 3) runs northeast to Tecate from El Sauzal, an industrial suburb near Ensenada. The turnoff from coastal Route 1 is easy to spot—look for the flock of eternally hungry seagulls circling the fish processing plants. Not too pretty. But within moments you’ll be winding through the purple-tinted foothills leading to the valley.

Spanish monks were among the first to recognize the valley had terroir ideal for vineyards—fertile soil, hot summers and ocean-breeze-cooled evenings. Centuries-old vines can still be seen near crumbling adobe ruins—evidence of the valley’s first vintners.

Bouncing around the valley’s dusty back roads, you’ll find new, tourist-oriented businesses. Once-sleepy towns have seen ad hoc food stands develop into permanent fixtures, availing themselves of the steady stream of travelers on the road to and from Tecate, a place better known for beer than wine.

One of the first tasting rooms in the valley is the eye-catching yellow winery of Eduardo Liceaga. “It wasn’t long ago there were only eight wineries along the Ruta del Vino,” says Liceaga. “And I was number seven.” The valley now supports 22 wineries, with more on the way.

The veteran winemaker made his home here in 1971. Surrounded by native oak and sweeping vistas, Liceaga recognized paradise—and perfect terroir. He pours me his award-winning 2002 Gran Reserva Merlot, lauded as some of the best in the valley.

Just up the highway is Casa de Piedra, a minimalist, hyper-modern winery owned by Hugo d’Acosta, the valley’s leading renaissance man. Constructed of corrugated sheet metal and decorated with a patina of orange and brown rust, the earth-hugging building nearly disappears into its tawny-colored surroundings.

At the vanguard of Mexico’s winemaking revival, d’Acosta is extolled as the region’s most knowledgeable winemaker. He recently turned a long-defunct winery into a school, teaching local and visiting growers how to optimize the region’s unique characteristics in producing premium wines and gourmet olive oils for a worldwide audience.

AT THE NORTH END OF THE VALLEY, Doña Lupe is one of the first women to run a full-scale wine production, using sustainable practices. In the shadow of the much larger L.A. Cetto, La Casa de Doña Lupe’s organic products—wines, fruit preserves, olives, fragrant herbs and Kumeyaay Indian handcrafts—are one of the valley’s biggest draws.

Although new development is apparent, there is a dearth of accommodations in the area. Until recently, the only choices were hotels or rental properties in or near Ensenada—a 45-minute drive. Adobe Guadalupe, the valley’s first luxury destination, is still only accessible via dirt roads. The elegant inn and equestrian center has met with instant success, and its wines are beginning to garner name recognition throughout the Americas.

Newcomers to the hospitality business, British-born Phillip and Eileen Gregory recently finished an Italian-inspired villa, the stunning Las Brisas del Valle. Atop a knoll overlooking the fertile valley, the six-room villa is decorated in an eclectic, thoroughly modern mixture of hacienda meets contemporary Italian, dubbed “Mexiterranean” by the couple.

The warm, erudite proprietors show me their freshly cultivated organic vegetable gardens, orchards and vineyards before graciously inviting me to dinner. The Gregorys recently retired from entertainment industry careers but still maintain their connection to the “biz.” Among the evening’s guests is a German actor, Peter Jordan, whose film had been nominated for an Academy Award the previous night.

Hours later, eight empty bottles preside over seven former strangers, exhausted by laughter. After breaking bread, we become members in good standing of what I’m predicting to be one big happy family—los amigos del Valle de Guadalupe.

If You Go

Most Valle de Guadalupe vineyards, restaurants and lodging are located on or accessible from the Ruta del Vino (Highway 3).

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