Desert Reign

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IT NEARLY SLIPS MY MIND I’d stayed in the Hyatt Regency when it first opened. The resort was a costar in the 2001 film America’s Sweethearts, with John Cusack, Julia Roberts, Catherine Zeta-Jones and Billy Crystal. But five years ago, besides the hotel, there wasn’t much to remember.

A shuttle now runs the 1-mile stretch from the Hyatt to the MonteLago Village. The Ritz, the MonteLago Village Resort and the casino are walking distance to the quiet little village.

I have a peaceful mushroom-risotto lunch at Luna Rossa in the village. A few tourists wander by the outdoor patio. And then a man on a Segway scooter darts by. Segway tours of the grounds are available.

The evening finds me at the Auld Dubliner. I eschew traditional Irish fare and concentrate on a pub burger, while an Irish crooner takes requests and plays guitar. Later, I clutch a hand-rolled stogie at La Havana Cigar Lounge as my tour guide and I sit and sip Grand Marnier. A bartender entertains us with stories about local homeowners Celine Dion and Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Eventually, I wander into the casino. There’s a crowd at the craps table. Here we go——here’s where we get Vegas action . . . but no, by midnight I’m throwing dice by myself. Luckily, the table is kind, hopefully painting me in a slightly less pathetic picture.

It’s not until the following morning——lying by the pool at the MonteLago Village Resort’s newly opened Luna di Lusso wing——that the spirit of the lake finally gets to me. I get up from the chaise lounge and dab my foot in the pool. I glance around. MonteLago Village Resort’s two wings are separated by the lake. Luna di Lusso and the 177-room Viera wing can be accessed by crossing the Ritz-Carlton’s Florentine-style Pontevecchio Bridge. The 375-foot-long bridge is 21 feet above the water. The bridge is home to a Fiorenza wedding chapel. Built above the multicolored bridge are Ritz club suites.

That’s the view to my right. To the left is the expanse of the lake. Beyond the lake are purple mountains with mocha outcroppings. It’s a remarkable sight that took me a day to notice. Slowed to resort pace, I take a deep breath. Lake Las Vegas is a grand idea. And a fascinating challenge. The level of ongoing construction is a distraction. There is, however, an abundance of natural and man-made splendor. This visit won’t be forgotten. And upon return, I’ll remember when to change gears.

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