The Beauty of Bora Bora

Steamy bungalows, romantic blue water . . . and sneaky sharks? All are reasons why the Tahitian islands are a haven for couples.

By Ron Donoho

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THE FLIGHT TO BORA BORA from Papeete is one hour. We land at night and are transported by boat to Le Meridien Bora Bora. That’s de rigueur here; nearly all the resorts are accessed by water.

My thatched-roof, over-water bungalow is ——could have been——a passionate den of sizzling sex appeal. The king-size bed is shrouded by a white mesh net. The floor has two carpets that pull away to reveal a lighted view of the ocean floor. There are no doors between the bathroom and bedroom, just shrouds hung on wooden dowels. And much of one dark wooden wall is actually cantilevered windows. One night, I take a two-hour bath (it seemed like two hours; still no clocks), with half the wall tilted open. I accidentally flash my honeymooner neighbors. Hey, while I am holding a key to this amazing room, somebody has to see me naked.

Water activities fill my partnerless days in Bora Bora. I swim with turtles in a Le Meridien lagoon that houses a unique turtle sanctuary. Working with the local government, the sanctuary aims to avoid extinction of indigenous hawksbill, leatherback and green sea turtles.

Another day is spent barely above water, speeding around the circular island on Jet Skis from Matira Jet Tours. It’s exhilarating to cut up the blue water that changes shades frequently and gorgeously. The excursion comes with a snack stop. Our guides demonstrate how to break open young coconuts for the best-tasting water and older ones for more abundant meat. One guide shaves coconut meat and places shavings between two halves of a banana. “Our hot dog,” he announces.

My most memorable Bora Bora moment comes courtesy of Shark Boy Tours. The plan: Boat out to the reef and snorkel with giant stingrays. Then we’ll pack up and go to another site for——yikes——shark viewing. Things begin as promised. The gooeyfeeling rays are tourist-friendly. They swarm like puppy dogs, albeit flat, filmy, flapping puppy dogs. We’re warned to not grab ray tails. And avoid the mouth——the rays don’t have teeth, but they can suck a mean hickey onto your skin.

Apparently tiger reef sharks don’t get memos, because they show up during ray time. They swim back and forth, advisedly more afraid of me than I them. Our guide keeps chumming the water. My fight-or-flight response doesn’t kick in. I stand still in the 4-foot water, mesmerized by the beady little eyes of the sharks. Later, back in the boat, I’m complimented for overcoming a fear of the finned ones.

“You didn’t even seem bothered when one shark came up behind us,” says a fellow snorkeler.

Nope, I didn’t freak out at all. Had I known at the time a shark was sneaking up behind me, it could have been a different story. And perhaps that offers the final, and best, reason for coming here as a couple: You have somebody to watch your back.

If You Go

The islands are serviced by Air Tahiti Nui (877-824-4846; airtahitinui-usa.com) . . . For reservations at Le Meridien hotels, go to starwood.com/lemeridien . . . For more info on activities, go to Moorea Transport, mooreatransport.com; Matira Jet Tours, borabora waverunner.com; or e-mail Shark Boy Tours at sharkboy@mail.pf.