Eat Like a Local

By Judi Strada

What would a summer trip to Camden, Maine, be without fresh lobster right off the boat? Can you go to Philadelphia without stopping on the street for a cheese-steak sandwich? Of course not. Should you top that offering with Cheez Whiz? Up to you.
The point is to eat indigenously. When in Rome ... well, we didn’t cover Rome. But when in Baltimore, get Chesapeake Bay crabs. And when in Atlanta, prepare for some finger-lickin’, because the meal of the day is fried chicken. You get the picture.

Picking 10 local specialties was relatively easy. Winnowing the options was a tougher task. We asked city-specific food writers, caterers, chefs and some plain ol’ avid eaters to help us out. Here are our collective, subjective selections.
Bon appètit!

City	Specialty	Best Bets
Atlanta	Fried chicken	Buckhead Diner (404-262-3336)—Chrome and neon outside; berry-scented pan-fried chicken inside. Horseradish Grill (404-255-7277)—A rustic setting where chicken preparation includes a 24-hour buttermilk soak. Thelma’s Kitchen (404-688-5855)—Crispy, meaty chicken in a small, down-home setting
Baltimore	Crabs	Anchor Inn (207-529-5584)—Divine lobster rolls with hand-picked meat; lobster stew is good, too. Cod End (207-372-6782)—Fish-market restaurant; lobsters caught fresh; eat on the dock or inside. The Waterfront (207-236-3747)—Chef Charles Butler stuffs lobster with local crab and shrimp
Camden (Maine)	Lobster	Anchor Inn (207-529-5584)—Divine lobster rolls with hand-picked meat; lobster stew is good, too. Cod End (207-372-6782)—Fish-market restaurant; lobsters caught fresh; eat on the dock or inside. The Waterfront (207-236-3747)—Chef Charles Butler stuffs lobster with local crab and shrimp
Chicago	Steak	Eli’s (312-642-1393)—Bill Clinton chowed here (of course; where didn’t he?). Go for the New York sirloin. Gene & Georgetti (312-527-3718)—Bring your appetite for the 16-ounce filet mignon or the big chops. Morton’s on State Street (312-266-4820)—The king of all steakhouses oozes club-like class
Dallas	Barbecued beef	Abacus (214-599-3111)—Chef Kent Rathbun catered President Bush’s inaugural ball. ’Nuff said? Sammy’s BBQ (214-880-9064)—A lunchtime institution for brisket slow-smoked all night over hickory. Sonny Bryan’s (214-357-7120)—Julia Child has dined here. Not much on looks, but the brisket and ribs are wowee
New Orleans	Gumbo	Brigsten’s (504-861-7610)—Riverbend District; rabbit gumbo with complex flavor that sings of the bayou. Franky & Johnny’s (504-899-9146)—Seafood gumbo done right, with shrimp, okra and crab. Herbsaint (504-524-4114)—Jazzy décor; traditional Creole seafood gumbo or a chicken, oyster, shrimp, andouille mix
New York	Bagel	Ess-a-Bagel (212-260-2252)—Pile these plump bagels high with meat and cheese for a super sandwich. H & H Bagels (212-595-8003)—Felt to be the best on the Upper West Side, if not the entire city. TriBeCa Grill (212-941-3900)—DeNiro’s swank eatery serves ’em with smoked Norwegian salmon
Philadelphia	Cheese-steak sandwich	Geno’s Steaks (215-389-0659)—Across the street from Pat’s; most order it with easily melted Cheez Whiz. Pat’s King of Steaks (215-468-1546)—The truly authentic choice, say devotees, with provolone or American cheese. Tony Luke’s (215-551-5725)—Small, cramped, under I-95 overpass; food must be good to survive setting
San Diego	Fish taco	The Fishery (858-272-9985)—Pacific Beach eatery serves Mr. Brown’s swordfish tacos on corn tortilla. Harbor Fish Café (760-729-4161)—Nine-inch whole-wheat tortilla filled with codfish fillets dipped in cornmeal batter. Rubio’s Fesh Mexican Grill (858-272-2801)—Still serving the original, beer-battered Alaskan pollack with salsa
San Francisco	Sourdough bread	Acme Bread Company (510-524-1327)—Best of the best; top local restaurants use this Berkeley sourdough. Arizmendi Bakery (415-566-3117)—Sourdough pizzas and rolls available, along with others filled with nuts, fruit. Tartine (415-487-2600)—Martha Stewart checked the loaves at this chic Mission District bakery