Los Angeles Lite

Guided: Brentwood

NOT KNOWING exactly what to expect, I drove north on I-405 toward Brentwood. The neighborhood’s connection to O.J. Simpson has faded. But other than the knowledge that Brentwood is an upscale Los Angeles bedroom community, what else did it have to offer a visitor? I found a hip hotel, a restaurant to rave about and easy access to art . . . and arugula.

WHERE TO STAY: The hotel is literally at the intersection of the 405 and Sunset Boulevard. Hotel Angeleno (310-476-6411; hotelangeleno.com) borders Brentwood and Bel Air. The property was renovated from a Holiday Inn into a congenially cool place with 208 guestrooms. The circular design grew on me the second I went looking for the ice machine (there’s no way to get lost on your floor). Entirely nonsmoking rooms are dark wood and contemporary, equipped with an “It’s All About The Bed” bed, ergo dynamic chairs and a 30-inch plasma flat-screen television.

Step out on the balcony and you can’t miss the cacophony of cars buzzing up and down the freeway. I was underwhelmed by the gym and pool——though the pool area is romantic by night, with a roaring fireplace. Somehow, though, the hotel’s vibe is refreshingly real, especially for L.A. Like Cinderella, this place used to be working class. And now that it looks like a princess, it hasn’t put on airs.

WHERE TO EAT: You don’t have to leave Hotel Angeleno to get a great meal. West Restaurant & Lounge (westatangeleno.com) is an Italian steakhouse on the top floor, with a 270-degree view of the city. Vie for a marble table near the window.

I enjoyed dinner so much——a 14-ounce, bone-in rib-eye steak, topped with Gorgonzola-seared foie gras supplement——I came back for a second. This time it was house-made porcini gnocchi in truffle mushroom cream, followed by Mediterranean sea bass over lobster ravioli. Service was impeccable; the waiter from dinner number one even stopped by to say hello and chat the next night.

WHAT TO DO: West executive chef Mark Mittleman shops at the Brentwood Farmers’ Market (pcfma.com) to pick out farm-fresh produce. On Saturdays, from 8 a.m. until noon, hotel guests can stroll around the market and look for fresh arugula, cherries, peaches and other fruits and vegetables grown locally. Hotel Angeleno is also proximal to the world-class Getty Museum (getty.edu). Check the Web site for exhibition schedules. Admission to the museum is free—— though there is a charge for parking. Get around that by taking the free shuttle from the hotel.

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