Island Hopping

EVERY GREAT DRIVE starts with a not-so-great road getting there. In the Emerald City of Seattle, that road is Interstate 405. But there is a pot of gold at one end—northbound, I-405 stops at a tiny ferry dock in Mukilteo, Washington.

This is where a jaw-dropping, islandhopping drive covering 200 miles, three days and three islands begins. The scenery is spectacular. Prepare for sensory overload, and remember this mantra:

Inhale, exhale . . . take the picture.

I’m in a 2007 Range Rover with all the bells and whistles, triple-zone climate control, a heated power tilt seat, telescopic steering wheel and rear-view back-up camera included. The GPS satellite navigational system has off-road mapping and voice control—all piped through the 710- watt, 14-speaker, Harmon/Kardon Logic7 Surround Sound system. Air suspension pumps me up for a great view over the railing during ferry rides.

Car ferries feel like riding piggy-back on a gray whale over water. Some people ride ferries just for the waterline views of more than 100 islands from the car deck. The water’s surface is so close, the wind carries mist. The Strait of Juan de Fuca is a liquid road and feels like a drive over gentle rolling hills.

The Mukilteo ferry is a 30-minute ride to Whidbey Island. Whidbey is home to Fort Casey State Park, one of the “triangle of death” military forts built in 1900. Two miles of shoreline have views clear to Canada. A historic lighthouse and military fortress with the original guns is fascinating. A picnic in the park is perfect for a history fix and panoramic view of the remaining drive route. You can see the San Juan Islands.

The next stop is treacherous Deception Pass. Driving across the bridge, 180 feet above the narrow channel water below, is a vertigo experience. Parking at one end and walking the pedestrian bridge is even better. The dramatic high bluffs have jagged outcroppings that echo with the sound of the turbulent water swirling far below. This beautiful but dangerous tidal nightmare has consumed many boats.

Inhale, exhale . . . take the picture.

Across the bridge, on what is now Fidalgo Island, the next destination is the Anacortes ferry dock, “Gateway to the San Juan Islands.” It rarely rains in this “Banana Belt” island chain. Killer whales, sunshine and kayakers abound. So do artists, chefs, boutique owners, winemakers, boaters and people who love watery, remote places. Seattleites drive to the islands on weekends to recapture what’s lost living in a gridlocked city. They escape here, because tourists don’t.

Locals know ferries can be unpredictable, but they still get to the docks early. Budget in a one-hour wait. A camera is a good way to occupy time.

THE IDEAL ITINERARY is arriving at Anacortes in time for the afternoon ferry to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. Spend one night on San Juan, then catch the midday ferry from San Juan to Orcas Island. Do one night on Orcas, and take the lateafternoon ferry back to Anacortes. Two nights is great; three is better.

After arriving at the San Juan Island Friday Harbor ferry dock in the late afternoon, drive east on Roche Harbor Road to circle the island. The perimeter of San Juan is only 10 miles. There’s plenty of time to stop at San Juan Vineyards and Roche Harbor—a coveted destination for boaters. Don’t miss the historic village and the Hotel de Haro, built in 1886. From there, a drive along the West Side Road offers panoramic views of Haro Strait. Look for killer whales from the seat of your car. Time the drive to hit secluded Cattle Point Road at sunset. Through your windshield, the Strait of Juan de Fuca turns pink and orange for miles and miles. You might see a red fox, as I did.

Back at Friday Harbor, have dinner at Steps Wine Bar & Café, and book a modern room with an outstanding view at Friday Harbor House. Or nestle into 100- year-old Kirk House, a cozy, country-style bed-and-breakfast. Owner Debbie Shayo will serve you strawberries from her garden the next morning, before you wander into downtown Friday Harbor for three “don’t miss” stops: Dominique’s clothing store, Island Studios and Pelinda Lavender. Grab some lunch at the popular Rocky Bay Café, then head to the ferry dock for your ride to Orcas Island. From the dock, the drive destination (plan three hours, round trip) is Mount Constitution in Moran State Park. It is 20 miles of stunning landscape on a road of canopied maple and cedar trees. Stop along the way at Rosario Resort—a great place to overnight—to feed the baby deer that wander the grounds. They love apple cores.

After the park entrance, 6 miles of awe-inspiring twists and turns lead to the top of Mount Constitution. This is the big payoff.

Mount Baker is the queen of this vista, with Vancouver Island, British Columbia, visible in the opposite direction. Mount Rainier, Mount St. Helens, the Cascade Mountain Range, the Olympic Mountain Range and a 360-degree view of every body of water from Seattle to Canada are laid out at your feet, including the Inside Passage to Alaska.

Inhale, exhale . . . take the picture.

Stay overnight high on the hill above the ferry landing at the Orcas Hotel in Orcas Village. Sit on the deck in a rocking chair. Have a glass of San Juan Island Merlot. Take in the orca whales playing in Harney Channel below you—and remember to breathe.

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