Island Time

The pace of life may slow during a visit to the Tahitian island of Moorea, but heartbeats quicken while swimming with sharks and exploring the island’s diverse beauty

By Wendy Rasmussen
Island Time

The whir of the hotel-room air conditioner stirs me from a deep slumber. As memory of yesterday’s eight-hour flight begins to crystallize, it hits me: I’m in paradise. I bounce out of bed, slide open the patio door and greet the morning sun, crashing waves and gardenia-scented humidity. Here in Tahiti, time runs on the sun’s schedule; people are out and about at 5 a.m., tackling tasks before it gets too warm. At 6 in the morning, guests already lounge poolside, and workers busily set up breakfast at the oceanfront, open-air restaurant.

We had arrived at the Radisson Plaza Resort after a late-night flight into Papeete airport. Tahiti’s major carrier, Air Tahiti Nui, flies nonstop from LAX, but the flight lands at midnight. If your final destination is Tahiti’s sister island of Moorea, you’re going to need to spend a night here first. Looking out at the black-sand beach horseshoed by the Radisson property, I can attest: There are worse places to spend a layover.

The Radisson Plaza has all the amenities you’d expect of a high-end resort—spa, 24/7 gym, shopping—but its focus on infusing local Tahitian culture into the property sets it apart from neighboring resorts. Cultural activities are offered on-site daily, free of charge. On certain nights, guests can enjoy a Polynesian show, complete with food, music and dancing. Local artisans occupy (rent-free) space in the resort’s market, giving guests the opportunity to buy authentic wares without leaving the hotel. And if you’re interested in visiting the main market in Papeete (which is worth seeing), a free shuttle will take you there. The ultimate perk for techie travelers is the free wi-fi; the Radisson is the only hotel in Tahiti to offer wireless.

Welcomed by a light rain, we arrive on Moorea via ferry later that afternoon. As in Papeete, the ferry terminal is a bit chaotic; honeymooners, locals and international travelers disperse in every direction. Exiting the terminal, the pace slows, and the island reveals itself to be both mellow and stunning, with endless views of luminous turquoise water and mountainous, lush vegetation. There are few cars and even fewer buildings. A 20-minute drive later, we’re at Legends Resort. As we make our way up the hill to the reception area, I notice a plot of tiare flowers on the left, a distinctly Tahitian vision.

Situated on the hilltop above the lagoon that surrounds the island, Legends Resort Moorea is a first-of-its-kind property in many respects. While hotels on the rest of the island feature over-water bungalows crammed together, these villas are perched high on the lush hillside and offer views you’d otherwise have to hike to. As we pull up to the open-air lobby, my attention is drawn to the expansive view of the lagoon, framed by the infinity pool just off the lobby.

After checking in, we’re driven to our private villa. As soon as the teak door opens, the view of the lagoon and ocean below returns, and we explore our private deck wrapped around the villa’s front. To my left is our own plunge pool and a covered seating area perfect for alfresco dining. I look right and see the sliding door into the kitchen is already open, inviting us inside.

Each Legends villa is completely self-contained, with a fully equipped kitchen, washer and dryer, satellite TV with DVD player and private bathrooms with soaking tubs. The layout of our three-bedroom villa makes me wish I had invited friends—it can comfortably accommodate up to six people. Each room features air conditioning, though the sliding wood-panel windows and doors beg to be open around the clock to allow in the fragrant tropical breeze.

If you’re looking for full-service luxury, your villa kitchen can be stocked prior to your arrival with whatever foods you request. Meals can be prepared and delivered, parties can be catered, and picnic baskets can be packed for day trips.

Options for dining out include the upscale La Villa des Sens at the bottom of the property. For a more casual dining experience with local flavor, hop on your scooter and explore the island’s offerings. You can count on having locally caught fresh fish pretty much anywhere in Moorea. At PKO Restaurant, a small roadside eatery, the tuna sashimi and mahi­mahi with bacon crisps and smoked cream was one of the best meals I’ve ever had.

“World-class wave—right there!” Every beach break we visit in Tahiti is heralded by locals as a premier surf spot. If surfing isn’t your thing, snorkeling is another way to get close to the underwater wildlife. I never dreamed I would swim with sharks and sting­rays by choice, but the predators in this lagoon act more like puppies. Our boat captain says the 5-foot black-tip sharks are the laziest in the world: “During the day they eat the dead stuff on the bottom, and at night they eat the sleeping fishes.”

Legends offers free transportation by boat to its own motu (islet), featuring a private beach complete with lounge chairs and snacks. To see the island’s verdant interior—and for the best view of the iconic Captain Cook’s Bay—there are off-road tours and hiking trails.

Since there isn’t much within walking distance of Legends, it’s a good idea to rent a car or scooter. The only driving hazard here is the wild dogs—not because they are prone to attack, but because they are prone to lazily lounging in the middle of the road.

While exploring Moorea on land and water, I’m both shocked and appreciative that this island paradise hasn’t been overrun with resorts and tourist traps. That’s all the more reason to return.

If You Go

Air Tahiti Nui flies nonstop from LAX to Papeete, Tahiti; go to airtahitinui.com. For rates at the Radisson Plaza Resort, call 800-395-7046 or click on radisson.com/aruefrp; also check Expedia for the best deals. For Legends Resort Moorea, visit legendsresortvillas.com. Two-bedroom villas start at $550 per night, with maximum occupancy of four. Three-bedroom villas for six guests start at $1,250 per night.