Jayne's Gastropub + Nick's at the Pier

Review

Jayne's Gastropub
location > 4677 30th Street, Normal Heights
phone > 619-563-1011
chef > Daniel Manrique

Nick's at the Pier
location > 5083 Santa Monica Avenue, Ocean Beach
phone > 619-222-7437
chef > Scotty McElroy

CALL IT A PUB, a bistro, a café or a grill. Whatever the nomenclature, it’s that neighborhood hangout with just the right blend of food, drink and vibe to make you a regular.

Jayne’s Gastropub and Nick’s at the Pier fit the bill perfectly, drawing local crowds for whom the restaurants are often just a short stroll from home.

THE REALITY OF A BAR that serves great food is common enough on these shores, but not in Britain’s pubs, long the butt of bangers-and-mash jokes. Owners of a London pub coined the term “gastropub” some years back to indicate a drinking establishment where one could obtain up-to-snuff meals as well.

Jayne’s Gastropub, on 30th Street near Adams Avenue, epitomizes the concept, serving upscale versions of fish and chips and steak frites to an enthusiastic throng. Sheer lace curtains, no-frills tables and chairs and an enormous Union Jack add a British stamp to the room. Out back, a walled patio absorbs the overflow of diners from the narrow bar and dining room, where noise levels can approach those of World Cup finals.

Getting orders to the table is a leisurely process, and entrée prices are a bit steep for the casual surroundings. But the culinary rewards are undeniable. Deeply caramelized French onion soup strewn with Gruyère is a starter that makes a perfect small meal ($7). Sautéed prawns steeped in garlic and fresh chilies ($12.50) taste straight from one of Madrid’s better tapas bars.

Jayne’s flatiron steak ($22) couples tenderness with intense flavor heightened by a summery salsa with mint and marjoram. Handfuls of delicious frites come on the side, as they do with battered fish and chips ($17.50), an offbeat version made with sea bass. It’s a fine dish, made even better with garlicky fresh snap peas we gobbled like candy. Also satisfying: glistening white halibut, a bit dear at $23 but well prepared and generously portioned.

We’d love to see some bargain wines on the list; 10 bucks a glass for Provence rosé or Chilean Chardonnay makes beer a better buy. For dessert, enjoy the refreshing affogato ($7)——vanilla ice cream with a shot of unsweetened espresso——or a glass of Port.

Parking’s a challenge in this densely populated neighborhood, so if you’ve made reservations, give yourself a little extra time——then relax into the convivial buzz that is Jayne’s.

Jayne’s Gastropub serves dinner Tuesday through Saturday evenings at 4677 30th Street, Normal Heights, 619-563-1011; jaynesgastropub.com.

SINCE OPENING IN 1995, P.B.’s Nick’s at the Beach has always scored high on our list of cool, casual dining spots. Half family-friendly eatery, half 21-and-up lounge with a full bar and pool tables, it boasts dependable food, moderate prices and a beachy ambience miles above Pacific Beach’s hardcore party scene.

Now there’s a sibling. Nick’s at the Pier, named for its proximity to the Ocean Beach landmark, opened in May in the prime space formerly occupied by Qwiggs Bar & Grill. Diners of all ages fill the airy second-floor dining room, where most tables offer views of the beach. In the adjacent adults-only lounge, tanned twentysomethings check out the two dozen flat-screen televisions almost as intently as each other. In both areas, attire ranges from summery frocks and the occasional tucked-in shirt to board shorts and flipflops. As long as you’re relatively decent, anything goes.

Wisely, the new place offers a menu similar to the original, which means old faves such as tortilla-crusted mahimahi ($15.95), crab cakes ($10.45), meat loaf ($13.95) and some of the fattest, most flavorful onion rings ($4.45) in town have arrived in O.B.

Given the location, it’s natural that seafood dominates the menu. Don’t miss the California scampi ($12.45), a red-hot sizzle of meaty shrimp, serrano chilies and garlic that will have you reaching for another draft. Order rice for an extra buck and it’s a meal.

While fish tends to come out a tad overdone for our sensibilities, both the cumin-dusted and the tortilla-crusted versions of the mahimahi are worth a try. Garlic mashed potatoes on the side are terrific. Skip the sesame-crusted seared ahi ($18.95), little more than bland slices crying out for some wasabi and black pepper.

Better bets: a Caesar-style sandwich tucking shrimp or chicken into a divinely spicy chipotle wrap, with fresh fruit and Asian coleslaw ($9.45) and the jalapeño chicken pasta ($14.95), another P.B. star that’s transitioned perfectly. Most desserts are from off-premises; the simple housemade bread pudding and tiramisu ($5.45) are serviceable.

Ed Moore, proprietor of the nearby 3rd Corner restaurant and wine shop, is an owner here, resulting in a wine list that’s compact, yet thoughtful and fairly priced. For sipping or with food, try a bottle of Chandon’s Pinot Meunier, an aromatic red ($29.75) or Richard Sanford’s gorgeously balanced Alma Rosa Chardonnay ($24.50).

Service, by a team of fresh-faced young men and women, is friendly, if not yet polished.

Parking in Ocean Beach can be an extreme sport, so use the lot beneath the building (alley access between Newport and Santa Monica) or nearby beach lots before trying your luck on the street. Elevator access is available from both the parking lot and first floor.

Nick’s at the Pier serves lunch and dinner daily (until 1 a.m.) and breakfast Saturday and Sunday at 5083 Santa Monica Avenue, Ocean Beach, 619-222-7437.

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