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THE CORNER OF FIFTH AND LAUREL is feeling quite grown up—and not because of all the new high-rise condos going in. Laurel Restaurant is here, as is Bertrand at Mr. A’s—both perennial favorites of the Gen-X and boomer contingent seeking a night out sans kids. But now that the stylish Gemelli Italian Grill has arrived, this intersection is looking like a thriving adult playground, indeed.
Opened in May by Vince Busalacchi, Gemelli seems custom-tailored to residents of this rapidly gentrifying neighborhood. It’s one part stylish speakeasy, one part upscale trattoria, with a splash of classic chophouse.
Songs by Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin fill the suave, suede-toned interior. Gentle lighting flatters the prosperous-looking crowd, many of whom seem to know one another, as well as their host. Between the serious socializing and the see/be seen vibe, you might not notice there’s some serious cooking going on. But there is—a mostly Italian lineup of pastas, antipasti, seafood and scallopine dishes, teamed with some good old-fashioned red meat from the grill.
Gemelli’s generous lineup of salads makes it easy being green. The deftly prepared Caesar ($7.95) gets a bold splash of balsamic vinaigrette and lemon, a nifty shift from traditional creamy dressing. And a dash of sherry revs up the spinach salad ($7.95) of tender, tiny leaves, avocado and Gorgonzola.
A couple of appetizers are standouts. Lightly toasted bruschetta ($7.95), heaped high with late-summer tomatoes and basil, would make a fine light dinner. So would crêpes Cristina ($9.95), a luxurious blend of pesto, Parmesan and cream sauce folded in crêpes and plated to resemble a butterfly.
So-so crab cakes served with Thousand Island dressing ($10.95) and a watery mushroom soup seemed to come from a different kitchen. Nosh on the fabulous house bread instead.
When it comes to main courses, Gemelli thinks big. As in 16-ounce rib-eye ($32.95) and 20-ounce porterhouse ($37.95)—both USDA prime, with all the gorgeous marbling your doctor keeps harping about.
Most of the entrées here would handily feed two. But we wouldn’t dream of sharing our perfetto pollo al Busalacchi ($16.95), chicken breasts plumped with good things like mozzarella and ham, then drizzled with lemon cream ($16.95). Or our salmone alla Ripieni, a fillet topped with crab and swaddled in garlic-mashed potatoes ($18.95).
Lightly breaded halibut served with the same winning topping as the bruschetta is another great catch. So’s the fresh salmon tossed with a buttery tomato sauce and braided pasta ($15.95). And while you don’t often see veal saltimbocca paired with spinach and spuds, the combo works fine and is a bargain at $18.95.
Not so the special veal ossobuco ($26.95). Despite a great supporting cast of pasta with slightly caramelized vegetables, the tough shank meat was fork-resistant and short on taste.
A FLOWER-GARNISHED DESSERT TRAY presented at the table includes housemade tiramisu and some gloriously messy profiteroles ($6.50 each). The latter, a trio filled with light chocolate cream and ladled with white chocolate sauce, provoked an enthusiastic War of the Spoons at our table.
Martinis and Manhattans are the drinks of choice here, and the mixologists turn out great cocktails. Good thing, because wines by the glass are limited in number and uneven in quality. We applaud Mr. Busalacchi, however, for handling a complaint about a flawed glass of white with grace and a quick replacement.
For wines by the bottle, prices start around the mid-$30s (Wild Horse Pinot Noir’s a smart buy at $32) and rise to $330 for a powerhouse Tuscan red blend, Angelo Gaja Barbaresco. One small quibble: No vintages are listed on the wine list, so don’t be bashful about asking. Corkage, if you bring your own vino, is $20.
Service is polite, pleasantly formal and fairly efficient. Waiters recognize return guests, are prompt with water refills and gladly package leftovers.
The raised, L-shaped dining room feels relaxed, buzzing with conversation but never loud, and there’s also a small, attractive bar with a television and seating for about a dozen. By press time, the adjacent patio facing onto Fifth Avenue should be open for business, providing room for 40 more guests.
Just in time. Gemelli seems sure to keep drawing a crowd.
Lunch is served Monday through Friday, with dinner nightly, at 495 Laurel Street, Bankers Hill, 619-234-1050.
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