A Side of Malarkey

Brian gives his take on Cucina Urbana, along with a recap of his recent meals at NYC hot spots

Well, once again I’ve let my daddy duties and traveling interfere with my SD blog. So let's not waste any time and get caught up on the “haps” of the San Diego dining scene and life on the road with Malarkey!

Catching up on the dining review in today’s Union-Tribune by Michele Parente: I love her take on the “hottest” spot in San Diego. I would have given Tracy Borkum and chef Joe Magnanelli more love on the fact that in this overused term “economic downturn,” they have given us all a spot where we can go get lost, have a great time with some mighty fine eats and still leave with our pants on and our pockets full.

I loved the food and found the seasoning to be right on, and I’m not going to bust Tracy’s chops for the “inexplicable vintage wooden shoe-stretchers” lining the stairs that walk you into the sunken “flea market chic” restaurant, even though Tracy once had the inability to lie to me when I cooked a private dinner she was at and told me “you may be a big deal in SD but you wouldn’t make it a second in NYC or LA!” Snap!

I thought what she did — taking the Miami Vice cocaine white and outdated Laurel and turning it into a place that ‘s perfect for the time and the pulse of our community — is genius! And saving money by wrapping those old white chairs with burlap coffee sacks was hilarious and, of course, affordable. Scribble on your walls, menus and servers’ shirts and laugh while you count your money that everyone else can’t seem to find. It’s time to have fun with your food, and I love the playfulness of Cucina Urbana!

Did I just give my review of a critics review or did I just give my own review when I’m not a critic? Do you smell that? Culinary suicide? Probably not but maybe!

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On the road with Malarkey: As you know I’ve been taking some time to play and pursue other endeavors while leaving the Oceanaire kitchen in the capable hands of Sean Langlais and crew. Not gone nor, I hope, forgotten at this point ...

Last week I had the opportunity to emcee the National Sushi Master Competition in L.A. with co-emcee Candace Kumai from season one of Top Chef. Attractive, Asian and fluent in Japanese, it made sense for her to be at this competition. I, on the other hand, was the comic-relief round eye of the crew. I only signed on for this after having watched Sam the Cooking Guy struggle through the regional competition here in San Diego. When I asked Sam for some advice on how to work on the pronunciation (or un-seation?) of the Japanese language, he was so kind and sent me some great links to Japanese slang and crude comments. Thanks Sam! The food was out of this world and everyone was so kind and passionate. Congratulations to all of the competitors!

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This past week my wife and I had the opportunity to spend an incredible three days in New York City, eating and drinking our way from neighborhood to neighborhood.

Highlights

Perilla: Harold the victorious chef from season one of Top Chef has a great little place with full-flavored and fun food. He was not in the kitchen on this night but was enjoying some scotch near the front door with his girlfriend. The place was full and under control; he is a smarter chef than me. We enjoyed cod cheeks with Korean barbecue sauce, spicy duck meatballs, pork belly and a few nice Belgian beers.

Market Table: Just a few blocks away we enjoyed the oyster with a chili mignonette, the best side of Sriracha corn off the cob, and farm-fresh pork porterhouse with a word I hate, but love to eat: “succotash!”

Employees Only: Great cocktails — the Billionaire Cocktail and the fact the bartender remembered I had the same drink three months ago will definitely make it part of my NYC tradition.

Otto, from our favorite fat ponytailed redhead Italian chef in awful orange clogs, Mario Batali: This place is so approachable, with great pizza and house-cured salami. The bartender was another great addition, remembering my wife and me from more than two years ago and squeezing us in for an early dinner in the “well” — the only place left without people packed on top of each other.

WD50: A huge disappointment! Jose Andre makes molecular gastronomy fun. Wylie does not! Bad service and peanut butter fish was more then I could stomach — cue emergency shot of tequila to kill the lingering flavors across the street at the great neighborhood bar Barramundi.

 

It’s been awhile, and I would love to hear what’s going on in your neighborhood. Tell me your thoughts, rumors or reviews. You know, give me some Malarkey!

I heard that Confab Chefs are having a pig fest up at Kitchen 1540 this Sunday. Thanks for the invite, Andrew, and I hope one of you has the balls to kill the pig yourself!

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