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Brian responds to Reader critic Naomi Wise
Dear Naomi Wise of the San Diego Weekly Reader,
I really wanted to thank you for including me in your review of El Bizcocho. Your colorful pontification of my culinary career reminds me more of my amateur blogging skills than your sophisticated reviews and in-depth articulation of your defined palate of word and worldly knowledge. How you have so patiently continued to write for a neighborhood periodical and not moved on to a larger forum to express yourself and reach more sophisticated readers — who can actually afford to enjoy the cuisine of the subject of this week’s review — is only a testament to your grassroots efforts to keep the younger minds well informed to the sophistication of a $150 tasting menu featuring hidden artichoke mousseline at a country club.
I remember way back when I got a review from you (my only less-than-positive one). You described to your readers how great it was to watch my chefs work their woks in the kitchen that was located below the main dining room. What I really enjoyed was that you can dissect, praise and annihilate restaurants week after week wielding your stars like the secretive hidden ninja you are, but you could not walk around the corner and realize that was the kitchen of the Red Pearl (Asian — woks!), not my kitchen. The hilarity did not end there; it got better when your photographer later came and took pictures of my restaurant to put in your review of the Red Pearl.
You see, I don’t have a problem with El Biz, I simply questioned executive chef Judd Canepari when he panned San Diego diners as not being sophisticated enough to understand molecular gastronomy. That’s when chef de cuisine Steven Rojas started responding back to me on my blog, and the rest was just playful jousting. I am really looking forward to trying Steven’s food — his résumé is out of this world — I just don’t think molecular gastronomy is a good way to pay the bills. Sure, it’s fun and great once in a while but this business is about repeat customers, not “culinary adventurers.”
Casting your five magical stars is great for the team at El Biz and I’m sure they will hang your review up on the wall next to all of their national awards of recognition. I’m sure their guests will put down The Wall Street Journal to breeze through your periodical and check what bands are coming to town and where to get a good “Beer in a Boot.” It’s always important to know your customer in whatever business you’re in. Perhaps you should consider substituting your ratings system of stars with pints.
Until then, I’m going to go have a “bull” of cereal! Wheaties, that is.
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Reader Comments:
wow! someones hurt
lets face it she has the balls to say it how it is. Thats why she doesnt work fot the union tribune... Great Article, Well deserved 5 stars! and I will be back!
naomi- i thought your critique was of el biz not brian malarkey. You must still be embarrassed of your comedy of errors while reviewing red pearl and oceanaire.
wow, if you want to "pay the bills" and get "repeat customers", how about taking up plumbing or electrical contracting instead of cooking? granted you have to stay in business to get people to try your food, but i don't hear any passion for creating good food in those comments. all i hear there is the bottom line.
I haven't tried El Biz as of yet, but I recently attended a cooking glass where Brian Malarkey featured halibut, and I have to tell you that I have never tasted anything so outstanding in my entire life. He was witty, informative and extremely knowledgeable about how to prepare some really fabulous dishes. Not too mention that Malarkey's cuisine is completely natural. Saying that he made his way to the top because of Top Chef is completely unfair and makes Naomi look like an angry and bitter woman. Brian Malarkey has nothing to do with her review of El Biz. Besides, I am really sick of these San Diego food writers who act like they know anything about food. I am wondering if any of them even know how to cook. Give me a break! Anyone can taste food, pick up a pen and write about it. Does Naomi know how to boil water or make toast or is she just researching on how to write about food over the internet?
I agree. Making it to the finals on Top Chef is quite an accomplishment! You GO Brian Malarkey!!
I believe there are a couple food writers in town who know how to cook. I read their stories all the time. Some even give out recipes.
it's funny that malarkey says he questioned canepari when he panned san diego diners, but he does the same thing in his 2nd to last paragraph when he says they'll "...check what bands are coming to town and where to get a good “Beer in a Boot.” It’s always important to know your customer in whatever business you’re in. Perhaps you should consider substituting your ratings system of stars with pints."
he's saying that the guests at rancho bernardo inn are more interested in local bands and beer than fine dining and implying that no one except guests would eat at el biz. isn't that pretty much an insult, too?
Let me make myself perfectly clear, I never said that San Diego diners were not sophisticated enough to understand Molecular Gastronomy. I mearly stated the fact that when you think of food towns, San Diego doesn't pop into mind. It is going to take a lot more than titles and T.V. spots to get people to respect what SD has to offer.
We have real talent here but if this talent isn't willing to stick thier necks out and do something different we're going to be stuck with Ahi towers and crab cakes. Thank god someone realized what we are trying to accomplish here, "Great Food".
Yes, it takes "guts" and yes we worry about the bottom line, it's my reputation on the line as well. When I get a review like that one it makes it all worth it. "Boots or Stars". Sorry Brian that Mrs. Wise took a swipe at you, but you got yourself into this one. I guess we should have talked San Diego food philosophy before you opened yourself up for the smack down. We also found the BLOG WARS entertaining and nothing more.
I can only offer you the opportunity to expierance it for your self. I'll let my culinary team speak for me.
Chef Canepari
i think we should just have a cook off. canepari vs. malarkey! come on guys dont be afraid.
Let's not forget that El Bizcocho is part of a resort whose overall goal must be to draw out-of-town guests. Their business plan cannot be the same as Oceanaire's.