Las Vegas Reborn

The new downtown dances to the beat of vintage drums.  And the party is heating up.

LONG BEFORE there was a hotel named after a tropical bird or an Arabian hero or a Roman emperor, there was a Las Vegas. Its main street was not Las Vegas Boulevard; it was called Fremont Street, in honor of explorer John C. Fremont, who, in 1844, literally put Las Vegas on the map.

For many years, the town existed as a small desert settlement with a name that meant nothing more than “the meadows” to anyone with a smattering of Spanish. Then, in 1931, Las Vegas became more than a spot on the road map. That year, the first Nevada gaming license was issued to the Northern Club on Fremont Street. The next gold rush was on.

Fremont Street became the center of Las Vegas’ birth as the hub of gaming. When neon started lighting up the sky, downtown Vegas was dubbed Glitter Gulch. Vegas Vic, the glowing cowboy who welcomed everyone with a wave and a “howdy,” became an instant icon, and visitors delighted in shutting off their headlights as they drove down the brightly lit street.

Today, the Fremont Street Experience has transformed this famous boulevard into a huge pedestrian promenade, complete with stage performances, shops, restaurants and the spectacular Viva Vision shows. A $17 million phenomenon, the Viva Vision display—with 12 million lights—is the biggest big screen in the world, extending the length of more than five football fields. It integrates live feeds, animation and synchronized music into spectacular entertainment 90 feet over the heads of the spectators. Shows such as “Above and Beyond,” a soaring tribute to flight, and “Area 51,” which transports viewers into an outer space filled with stars, comets and an intergalactic battle, dazzle visitors nightly.

Since 1946, the cornerstone for downtown Las Vegas has been the Golden Nugget. Created to be a replica of the Golden Nugget on San Francisco’s famed Barbary Coast, it was the first Vegas building designed as a casino before the blueprints were even drawn.

In 2005, this downtown landmark began a massive $100 million renovation. Three towers of first-class guestrooms now open to views of the Spring Mountains and the lights of the valley. Sweeping away the perception that all the good food is found only on the Strip, the Golden Nugget has brought in several new restaurants, including Houstonbased Vic & Anthony’s Steakhouse and its own unique Lillie’s Noodle House, a contemporary yet casual Pan-Asian restaurant.

One of the biggest thrills of the Golden Nugget isn’t winning the jackpot in the casino (well, yes, that’s a big thrill, too)—it’s diving and swimming next to sharks. The Tank, a $20 million, one-ofa- kind pool, boasts an aquarium and three-story waterslide. This is not your daddy’s slide, though. Swimmers slide down a glass tube that takes them through the tank of sharks and stingrays. Afterward, it’s time for a drink poolside at The Dive Bar.

After visitors swim with the fishes, they can discover the downtown area’s endless indulgences. There is shopping for art, for example, and we’re not talking about a shotglass with painted dice. The first Friday of every month in the Downtown Arts District draws thousands of guests and residents with visual and performing artists—from giant balloon sculptures to breakdancing—and a chance to browse the area’s art galleries and antiques shops.

Then there is 3rd Street. More than just a location, 3rd Street is vintage Vegas with a modern twist. Visitors to sidebar find a cozy ambience, fine cigars and drinks that taste of today yet hark back to the days of the Rat Pack, such as the Bing Cherry Mojito, the Downtown Manhattan or a Harvey Wallbanger made with Grey Goose vodka. Triple George Grill brings San Francisco clam chowder to the desert, along with dry-aged steaks, private wooden booths and a shoeshine post combining old and new. From New York’s West Village, Hogs & Heifers Saloon is known for its cold beer, loud music and a staff that hurls insults as quickly as they pour the classic well drinks.

Las Vegas has always beckoned with mirages and the dream of finding treasure hidden in the desert. Today, that dream is coming true in the new old Las Vegas.

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