Duckhorn Vineyards

FEW PRODUCERS in the post-Sideways era tout their expertise in producing world-class Merlot. However, in the intervening years since the film’s anti-Merlot stance spooked the general public, wine consumers’ fears have calmed, and the more sophisticated among them have recognized that anyone who’s savored the velvet glories of Château Pétrus or Château Le Pin can’t help but become a passionate admirer of this unfairly maligned varietal.

Happily for the rest of us, Margaret and Dan Duckhorn learned this lesson early on. Their love of Merlot took root during their travels in the Pomerol and St.- Émilion regions of Bordeaux, where they admired the supple texture and soft tannins of the wines. When the couple established Duckhorn Vineyards in 1976, they set extraordinarily high standards for production of estate-grown Merlot in California, and since their inaugural 1978 vintage, Duckhorn Merlots have counted among the finest outside of France.

The Duckhorns’ reputation does not rest entirely on this gentler Bordelaise grape: Their superb Cabernet Sauvignons enjoy equal renown. Of the current re - leases, the 2004 Rector Creek Cabernet Sauvignon ($95), in particular, stands out, exhibiting a lush, dark, intense fruit. The rocky soil of this vineyard, located just north of Yount ville, performed exceptionally well in 2004, abetted by an early bud break and a long ripening season, which ended with a heat wave, bringing the fruit to the pitch of ripeness. The result is a terrifically balanced, well-structured wine composed of 86 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 9 percent Merlot and 5 percent Cabernet Franc. The nose delivers intense aromas of blackberry, cinnamon and vanilla, accented by the pleasant earthiness of root beer and mushroom. The palate is alive with a complex medley of berry and currant flavors, as well as hints of butterscotch. This wine’s only flaw is availability: A mere 396 cases were produced.

Duckhorn Vineyards, duckhornvineyards.com; 888- 354-8885.

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