Much Ado About Mutton

WORD ASSOCIATIONS can be so droll. The moment a newscaster announced that Much Ado About Nuttin’ (her pronunciation) would appear locally, sheep began prancing between my ears. To be moderately technical, mutton is the meat of teensy little baa-lambs that grow up to become very stinky sheep.

The British and Commonwealth affection for this meat accounts for several memoires de mouton, like that of a World War II Marine who recounted how several hundred restless leathernecks traversed the South Seas in a Navy vessel that hadn’t called in port for more than a year. Soon after an Aussie supply ship pulled alongside one morning, the smell of roasting mutton befouled the decks. The Marines mutinied (it was wartime!) and ordered the captain to dump the meat or go swimming. He scuttled the mutton.

In 1986, I was walking through a seaside park in Fremantle, Australia, when an impenetrable wall of odor stopped me cold. From a half-mile offshore, cruel breezes lofted the scent of thousands of animals from a Pakistan- bound, skyscraper-like sheep ship.

It’s odd to own numerous mutton anecdotes, since I don’t think I’ve eaten it. A favorite is from London in 1992, where I sat is fied a long-running itch by making reservations at the Savoy Grille. When I entered the room, the smell of grilled mutton chops smacked me like a sucker punch. The maître d’ gave me a choice table, and as I took a first taste of the famous smokedhaddock omelet, a small to-do at the entry drew the room’s attention. A moment later, two well-dressed, 30ish men were seated next to me, and just as I was about to greet the familiar one, I realized he was Prince Andrew. It was a long day, and when my head hit the pillow that night, I didn’t count sheep.

WHEN THE WASHTUB PERCUSSIONIST switches to a washboard and simultaneously plays the kazoo, the mood on the Urban Solace terrace seems distant from the heart of the big city, and so much fun. Chef/partner Matt Gordon recently fine-tuned the menu for the restaurant’s first anniversary by adding such noteworthy dishes as the Dungeness crab “Pop Tart,” an elegant presentation of lightly creamed crab encased in the flakiest puff pastry. It’s rich but nicely balanced by the shredded fennel–apple salad served alongside. Share the tart and follow it with the winter seafood stew, a robustly seasoned (garlic, multiple herbs, lemon oil) mélange of fin and shellfish simmered in a roasted tomato broth leavened with peppered crème fraiche. Nice——as is the “Not So Red” Velvet Cake, which Gordon colors with beets, just like great-great-grandma did . . . Mike Mitchell, whose many years of managing the city’s leading eateries will entitle him to landmark status upon retirement, ably shepherded The Ocean aire Seafood Room from its opening day, directing service that seemed virtually goofproof. In a profession known for moving on, he certainly has, from the chic downtown eatery to Café Coyote in Old Town. Will all those well-tailored suits wind up on eBay?

TWO DEALS DU JOUR: All food items are reduced 15 percent at the multiple Vigilucci’s restaurants January 15-30. The 15-day special honors the chain’s 15th anniversary . . . On “Taco Tuesdays,” 14 varieties of tasty, Guadalajara-style tacos (with freshly made corn tortillas!) cost just $2 each through the night at Calaco Grill, a littleknown Gaslamp find at 732 Fourth Avenue. Smoked tuna, zesty pork adobado and super-savory beef tongue tacos are among the treats.

EVERYBODY WAS WRESTLING big burgers the other day at Mission Hills’ new Olivetto. While they’re artfully composed, this stylish neighborhood place serves even better pastas at lunch. The pennette alla amatriciana masterfully opposes the lively flavors of pancetta bacon, onions, chili flakes and tomato with the toothy texture of al dente macaroni. On the dinner list, the veal scallopini with forest mushrooms and veal jus looks like a well-priced winner.

IF YOU OWN A SVELTE FIGURE, the Sunday brunch at the Little Italy location of Karen Krasne’s Extraordinary Desserts ($16.95 for adults, $12.95 under 12) can do some serious damage. The buffet stretches along the bar (set with gorgeous arrangements of calla lilies and roses), concluding with what Krasne does best, gorgeous pastries like chocolate Danish pastries, pumpkin-pecan tarts and squaredoff strawberry danishes. Otherwise, guests browse fine cheeses, make toast to accompany Krasne’s own jams and build open-face sandwiches with smoked salmon and sliced turkey. No hot dishes, no bacon and eggs, but organic vanilla yogurt can be spooned over ripe sugared strawberries.

Battling Beverages

It wasn’t quite Rocky, but there was a ringmaster of sorts at the second annual Beer vs. Wine Dinner. “We have a rematch tonight, beer versus wine. It’s Friday night!” shouted the sommelier from the steps that descend into the regal El Bizcocho room at the Rancho Bernardo Inn. The dinner setting numbered 13 glasses: one for water, six for brewskis, six for wine. New El Biz chef Steven Rojas served six adventurous courses, including a pairing of abalone and foie gras matched with Koeningshoeven Quadrupel beer from Holland and 2006 Napa Cellars Chardonnay. The dish prompted one guest to inquire, “Why don’t we have beer-scented incense?” There was no answer to that question, but by the end of the evening, the votes of the 100-plus guests gave an edge to the wines selected by Barry Wiss of Trinchero Winery. Later, local beer guy Greg Koch of Stone Brewery in Escondido took the loss with a shrug, saying, “We won last year, so we’re set for the grand tiebreaker rematch next year.” Probably——but will Rojas k.o. attendees with an entrée like his olive-poached venison with turnip fondant, chocolate and long pepper?

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