Gastro Trip: Salt Lake City
What to expect this season in our favorite food destinations, both established and up-and-coming
For many, Salt Lake City is a gateway to great skiing, not a destination of its own, but lately Utah’s largest city is shedding its sterile image and Mormon–infused purity.
Forward-thinking restaurateur Scott Evans forged new ground with his two farm-to-fork eateries. At Pago (878 South 900 East), a thoughtful list of small production wines complements the New American cuisine, like a carrot tasting or whole trout for two with lima beans and lemon salsa verde, dotting the menu. Contemporary Spanish characterizes Finca (327 West 200 South)—dishes like piquillo peppers stuffed with wood-smoked pork, shrimp fritters, and paella impress. Upbeat yet intimate Eva (317 South Main Street) serves up comfort-style tapas (lobster ravioli or tri-tip bruschetta) and craft cocktails with desserts and fresh bread from its boulangerie down the street. Pop into Pallet (237 South 400 West) for gnocchi pillows with pear, hamachi with green peppercorn sorbet, or pork belly with Brussels. Or belly up at the classic watering hole Copper Common (111 East 300 South), whose fare redefines bar food with its smoked pork rillettes, and chicken croquettes with cremini ’shrooms.
Heading to nearby Park City? Try the newly opened Handle (136 Heber Avenue) in historic Old Town, where chef Briar Handley spins out seasonally driven small plates, such as Arctic char crudo in grapefruit vinaigrette, mussels jazzed up with salsa verde, and hearty pork rib chops with roasted fennel, mint, and goat cheese. Order up a Bitter Miner with gin, green chartreuse, Cointreau, lime, and celery bitters. Welcome to the new West.