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EXPLORE
Old Faithful
Every 30 minutes or so, a torrent of scalding mineral water shoots 60 feet in the air. Bring your own picnic lunch, let the wee ones roam, and then visit the exotic petting zoo with Tennessee “fainting” goats, llamas, and Jacob’s four-horn sheep. Tip: bring plenty of quarters for “feed” money. oldfaithfulgeyser.com
Calistoga Balloons
If you’re willing to fork over some cash and your family “does” mornings, take in the whole Napa Valley from above, via an hour-long balloon ride. View Old Faithful, the Petrified Forest, and Mount Saint Helena. Kids must be age seven or older. Back on the ground, partake in the included champagne brunch (OJ provided). ($225 per person, but check Web site for special Internet rates), 1458 Lincoln Ave. #15, 707-942-5758, calistogaballoons.com
Robert Louis Stevenson State Park
In 1880, the author of Treasure Island and his bride spent their honeymoon in an abandoned mining camp cabin seven miles outside of town. The cabin is gone, but the five-mile hike up Mount Saint Helena and the views of the Pacific and San Francisco should inspire the kids to pick up a copy of Treasure Island. (Many of the descriptions are said to have come from the time Stevenson spent here.) 3801 Saint Helena Highway, 707-942-4575, parks.ca.gov
Take a mud bath
A visit to Calistoga isn’t complete without a mud bath. At Indian Springs, guests aged 16 and up can submerge themselves in large cement bathtubs overflowing with warm, oozing mud. Afterwards, soak and rinse in warm mineral water, and cocoon yourself in blankets for a short rest. Emerge feeling exceptionally clean and calm. Parents, get your angst-ridden teens a mud bath stat. indianspringscalistoga.com. Also at Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort, drwilkinson.com; Golden Haven Hot Springs Spa and Resort, goldenhaven.com.
EAT
Buster’s BBQ & Bakery
Sit down for a meal of tri-tip, pork, or chicken, with hot dogs and milkshakes for the kids. Tip: the wooden shack is easy to miss—so look for the smoke billowing from the oak-fired grill (where you’ll likely find Buster himself). 1207 Foothill Blvd., 707-942-5605, busterssouthernbbq.com
Checkers
At this moderately priced Italian restaurant, there’s a separate kids’ menu and an ample supply of crayons along with Cabernet for the adults. Plus, it’s conveniently located on Lincoln Avenue, the town’s main drag, and on the same block as Scoops and Swirls, a hole-in-the-wall ice-cream shop. 1414 Lincoln Ave., 707-942-9300, checkerscalistoga.com
This Month: Calistoga Ranch Harvest Party
The walk-around wine tasting put on by Calistoga Ranch’s vintners and local artisans includes a harvest dinner buffet and live music. September 11 from 2 to 9p.m.
Gott’s Roadside
What could be mistaken for a Dairy Queen on steroids is actually an upscale gourmet burger stand serving blue cheese burgers, ahi poke, crispy tacos, beer, and wine. And there’s the requisite fries and shakes for the small set. Located in St. Helena, a 10-minute drive from Calistoga, Gott’s al fresco dining is worth the trip. 933 Main St., St. Helena, 707-963-3486, gottsroadside.com
STAY
Home Away from Home
Rent a private house in Calistoga—many of them come with vineyard vistas and swimming pools to keep the kids cool, as fall temperatures can still be quite warm in the Valley. Among the available rentals: an updated farmhouse set on 60 vineyard acres rented by the week; and a three-villa property complete with pool, tennis court, and outdoor kitchen rented by the month. cyberrentals.com
Solage Calistoga
This luxury boutique hotel has a separate children’s pool as well as kids’ hopscotch courts, bocce ball, and horseshoes. The hotel also has pet-friendly rooms with custom-designed pet beds, Buddy Biscuit organic snacks, and an outdoor pet lawn. If you don’t have a dog to walk, take the complimentary bikes into town. 755 Silverado Trail, 707-226-0800, solagecalistoga.com
Indian Springs Resort and Spa
Ten years ago, Indian Springs and kids didn’t mix. But today, bright-yellow rubber ducks and bendable noodles line the mammoth-sized, Mission-style mineral pool. There’s also a kids’ craft table and oversized chess, bocce, and croquet sets. For overnight guests, there is complimentary bikes for leisurely rides into town and the pool is open until midnight. The resort offers several 1940s bungalows with kitchenettes and separate bedrooms. 1712 Lincoln Ave., 707-942-4913, indianspringscalistoga.com
Best Western Stevenson Manor Inn
A more affordable option than Indian Springs is the neighboring Best Western. Plusher than a typical motel, and only a short stroll from town, the inn boasts a heated pool and spa and a deluxe continental breakfast. For the money you save, you can book yourself a treatment at Indian Springs while the kiddies spend the day floating in the gargantuan pool. 1830 Lincoln Ave., 707-709-8030, stevensonmanor.com
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