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New & Notable - North County Edition

Restaurant débuts, menu changes, and trend tracking

Truffled gnocchi with 
pan-roasted fish at Cavaillon
Photo by Andrea Bricco, Joel Muzzey

Truffled gnocchi with pan-roasted fish at Cavaillon

Swiss chef Michael von Euw has taken the helm at Cavaillon, elevating the mood and menu more toward fine dining. His culinary play with wild turbot, line caught from the chilly waters off Brittany, is worth the drive alone to Santaluz. Exquisite truffled gnocchi complements the tender, pan-roasted fish, a unique find here in San Diego.

Almost two years after its fire, Calypso has finally reopened its doors. The fire-engine red restaurant on Coast Highway in Encinitas has a new updated look but the musical and culinary soul—and clientele—remains the same, as you’ll still find salty surfers dining next to folks from The Ranch, enjoying whole seabass baked in rock salt, while tapping their toes to reggae and jazz. 

Solana Beach’s excellent urban winery, Carruth Cellars, has joined the Winery Rails Trail party train where oenophiles can spend a day riding the Coaster and trolleys to winery outposts from Oceanside’s Fifty Barrels Winery and Carlsbad’s Witchcreek Winery to Solana’s Carruth Cellars, Hacienda de las Rosa in Old Town, and the San Pasqual tasting room in La Mesa.

Craving a traditional Sunday feast? Chef Eugenio Martignago at West Steak and Seafood is serving “Slow-Cooked Sunday Supper,” a three-course leisurely family meal featuring tender short ribs, osso buco, lamb shank, and prime rib at an affordable $29.95 per person.

For those in the know, the new cool lunch spot is Haggo’s Organic Taco in Leucadia, a walk-up stand, set in a funky, pebble-strewn and tomato vine-draped garden. A vintage dial telephone, old photos of Jacques Cousteau, Gumby, and a nod to Wes Anderson reflect “organic entrepreneur” James Haggard’s sense of humor and eclectic taste. The pace is relaxed and the food is lovingly prepared with heirloom organic veggies from Coral Tree Farm & Nursery in Encinitas, natural corn tortillas, and sustainable meats and fish.

Quaking from its rapid-fire success and astounding numbers (can you say “over 450 covers a night”?) Burlap has now launched their lunch and brunch menus so you can try Brian Malarkey’s playful cuisine on the sunny wrap-around patio and actually hear yourself speak. Brunch includes “Sunday Bloody Sunday” with seven-spice shrimp, bacon-dashi grits, and a poached egg; and the demonic “Cashew Sticky Bun” with cream cheese glaze. Plans for myriad more social-dining incarnations are in the works: Herringbone  (La Jolla) and Gingham (La Mesa) anyone?  // ann wycoff

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