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FeedUnder the TBL in La Jolla
Trey Foshee uncensors himself at TBL3
(page 1 of 2)
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View more photos from TBL3 in the gallery below |
SOMETIME AROUND COURSE 12—roasted Chino Farm carrots that taste, freakishly, like dry-aged beef—I start thinking about deep vein thrombosis. About how it sounds like an ailment related to marching bands. Or jazz slang for something sleazy. Is it a quick undoing of the mortal coil? And is the pain eased by recent ingestion of local spiny lobster over sweet potato-coconut pudding, washed down with an ’08 Maximin Grunhauser German Reisling (course eight)?
We’ve been sitting at TBL3 for three hours, with four courses to go. In Italy, that’s a power lunch. In New York and Chicago, all-night, multi-course feasts are sport. Instead of spending $700 to watch the Bears lose, Chi-Town foodies plop down $400-$3,000 for tickets to Grant Achatz’ restaurant, Next.
Good or bad, blame the French (sound advice in most situations). In the ’70s, chefs went nuts for nouvelle cuisine—creative modern dishes, using super-fresh ingredients in small portions. Diners often ordered them all, which created chaos in kitchens. Thus, degustation menus: six to 12 predetermined courses, with wine pairings.
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[ Try It ] 1250 Prospect St., La Jolla 858-454-4244 georgesatthecove.com/TBL3 |
The trend came stateside in the 1980s, often credited to Chicago’s Charlie Trotter. His success was, a contentious topic: “It’s an all-access pass to the chef show!” “It’s dinner as a hostage situation!”
Former New York Times critic Frank Bruni derided it as a power grab by chefs with artistic inferiority complexes. Alice Waters, Daniel Boulud, and Mario Batali all dissed it. Now, Batali offers a seven-course at Del Posto in New York for $145 (add $135 for wine pairings). Boulud’s six-course at Daniel is $195 before wine. Attitudes, they adjust.
The soul-sucking scoundrel known as The Recent American Economy made degustation even less sexy. For a while, anyone caught eating more than three courses for a grand total of $19.99 was a secessionist. But in 2011, with NASDAQ rehabbing and comfort food fatigue upon us, chef Trey Foshee decided the time was right for TBL3.
Food & Wine named Foshee one of America’s “Best New Chefs” in 1998. A year later, he left Robert Redford’s Sundance Resort to open George’s at the Cove. Over 14 years, he and owner George Hauer have built a three-story pinnacle of San Diego cuisine. He’s also built himself a pair of golden handcuffs, marshalling over 1,200 meals on a busy night.
Chefs are not immune to the grudge match between quantity and quality. A restaurant whose chef obsesses over every microgreen will soon serve fresh, hot bankruptcy. One that cranks out 5,000 meals a night without top-notch cooks has already beheaded the goose that lays the golden eggs; they can only hope to sell before it starts laying ping-pong balls. Balance is the only option, and near impossible.
George’s achieved it through segmentation. Foshee oversees the casual Ocean Terrace, but the 193-seat California Modern is his big-budget show room. Now the creation of TBL3 sends a clear message: All along, we’ve been tasting an edited version of The Foshee Show.
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Reader Comments:
Saw some criticism on twitter for this article but you shouldn't listen to what the self-important food blogger crowd has to say. For some reason, they react with scorn whenever someone disagrees with them and appears not to fawn over their chosen icons (of which Foshee is one, and rightfully so).
I felt your point was to acknowledge the skepticism SD diners will have for this type of dining and then fairly describe it as Foshee's playground, where one should expect the unexpected. Some people who find fault with this article are so used to tasting menus and elevated fine dining experiences that they have forgotten that most people go out to eat simple food and would be confused, and quite possibly irritated, by a cauliflower that tastes more like chicken. That most people, when told of an expensive tasting menus, expect that they are comprised of a restaurant's best dishes and often leave unhappy when they are not served 6 courses of heavy proteins and a predictable chocolate dessert.
For most people, therefore, this article provides value by describing the experience, being honest that one might not love every single course and by noting that this type of experience should be compared to a night out (e.g. a concert) rather than a 1.5 hour dinner.
I am a fan of Foshee and have been looking for someone to join me for a TBL3 meal but can't manage to convince anyone that the price is worth it. (Not interested in going alone because, for me, half of the fun is sharing the experience with someone.) I'll be showing people this article in hopes that they'll decide they are up to the experience.
KB if you're interested in companions for TBL3, just ask on Chowhound or thecommunal-table.com and I'm sure you'll find many like-minded dining partners...
How can the writer say that this concept doesn't work in San Diego.
On any given night, in any of the upper-echelon sushi restaurants in San Diego -- Sushi Ota, Nobu and Hane to name a few that do-- there are people doing omakase.
Although not called a tasting or degustation menu, the fact that there are 14-18 courses, is prix fixe, and the attention is paid to a group of diners by a chef, makes it a similar experience.
Omakase can run in the $80-$150 range (without sake) depending on the restaurant and the number of courses. And this happens at great sushi joints on a nightly basis in San Diego.
Like omakase (Japanese for "I'll leave it up to you..."), degustation or tasting menus actually are a decent value. Sure you risk not liking every dish on offer, but surely, you will be rewarded by getting the freshest ingredients in the house, the attention of the Chef and a small but usually the best team of sous-chefs, the best service, and most importantly, the artistic expression of a great culinary team.
I applaud Trey Foshee for doing this concept and for his fighting the good fight in trying to put San Diego on the culinary map.
I wish the article spoke more about the food (a passing reference to three or four of the 18 courses?) than the writers' attempt at proving his point. But food did get the last laugh. At the end, the photos completely outshines the words.
@edwinreal
How can the writer say that this concept doesn't work in San Diego.
On any given night, in any of the upper-echelon sushi restaurants in San Diego -- Sushi Ota, Nobu and Hane to name a few that do-- there are people doing omakase.
Although not called a tasting or degustation menu, the fact that there are 14-18 courses, is prix fixe, and the attention is paid to a group of diners by a chef, makes it a similar experience.
Omakase can run in the $80-$150 range (without sake) depending on the restaurant and the number of courses. And this happens at great sushi joints on a nightly basis in San Diego.
Like omakase (Japanese for "I'll leave it up to you..."), degustation or tasting menus actually are a decent value. Sure you risk not liking every dish on offer, but surely, you will be rewarded by getting the freshest ingredients in the house, the attention of the Chef and a small but usually the best team of sous-chefs, the best service, and most importantly, the artistic expression of a great culinary team.
I applaud Trey Foshee for doing this concept and for his fighting the good fight in trying to put San Diego on the culinary map.
I wish the article spoke more about the food (a passing reference to three or four of the 18 courses?) than the writers' attempt at proving his point. But food did get the last laugh. At the end, the photos completely outshines the words.
How can the writer say that this concept doesn't work in San Diego.
On any given night, in any of the upper-echelon sushi restaurants in San Diego -- Sushi Ota, Nobu and Hane to name a few that do-- there are people doing omakase.
Although not called a tasting or degustation menu, the fact that there are 14-18 courses, is prix fixe, and the attention is paid to a group of diners by a chef, makes it a similar experience.
Omakase can run in the $80-$150 range (without sake) depending on the restaurant and the number of courses. And this happens at great sushi joints on a nightly basis in San Diego.
Like omakase (Japanese for "I'll leave it up to you..."), degustation or tasting menus actually are a decent value. Sure you risk not liking every dish on offer, but surely, you will be rewarded by getting the freshest ingredients in the house, the attention of the Chef and a small but usually the best team of sous-chefs, the best service, and most importantly, the artistic expression of a great culinary team.
I applaud Trey Foshee for doing this concept and for his fighting the good fight in trying to put San Diego on the culinary map.
I wish the article spoke more about the food (a passing reference to three or four of the 18 courses?) than the writers' attempt at proving his point. But food did get the last laugh. At the end, the photos completely outshines the words.
@edwinreal
WTF. I know San Diego is known as a Micro Brew and Burger kind of town and maybe Modernist Cuisine has not hit everyones radar. But to say that we are not ready for something like this. Or that it would not work in San Diego. Is kind of like saying we are to stupid for something like this. And from your reaction to the food I think you maybe the problem and not San Diego. You may not be ready for food like this. Please don't speak for all of us!
Elaborate tasting menus are never going to attract the masses, so the argument about whether or not it will work here depends on how many butts in seats are needed to deem something successful. Tasting menus are more about the chef having an opportunity to be creative and experiment. Diners go in knowing this and are prepared to pay for it. Moreover, the fact that it's so exclusive is part of the draw. Trey would likely be much more successful (in terms of sheer volume) if he opened a casual fish taco and beer bar, but I don't think that's the point.
$645- you could have had 20 governador tacos from Mariscos German, 20 smoked marlin and 10 mariscadas tacos from Mariscos Isaak (free consumme du mares), 10 orders of carne asada fries from Humbertos, 8 deluxe delmonico ribeye steak dinners with garlic bread and garden salad at Turf Club, 40 rolled barbacoa tacos from El Borrego (includes a variety of fresh handmade salsas)10 campenchana seafood cocktails from TJ Oyster bar (crisp saltine "crackers")5 Luigi pizzas, and 10 specialty burgers from Slaters 50/50.
This article is disturbing on so many levels. Aside from poor composition and utilizing words and phrases incorrectly, the most disturbing thing is that the "author" disrespects Chef Foshee, the French, San Diegans, and chefs worldwide. Clearly Mr. Johnson does not appreciate the heart and soul chefs and their staff pour into their edible creations which they graciously share with others. And sadly, he is writing about food and he doesn't seem to be particularly interested in food.
I haven't, yet, had the opportunity to explore the TBL3 experience, but I have it on my radar and have full intention of scheduling this year. However, I frequently dine at George's - California Modern and the Ocean Terrace and consider California Modern to be one of my favorite restaurants. In addition to serving delectable and gorgeously presented food, Chef Foshee and his staff offer their clientele memorable experiences through gracious service, inventive cuisine, and a sophisticated yet casual setting. I encourage everyone to visit George's and treat themselves to one of San Diego's best dining experiences. Try the La Révolution speciality cocktail, the Chanterelle Stew with 60-degree egg, the Smoked Foie Gras (think PB&J), or their famous "fish tacos". I promise you will enjoy yourselves!
Fabulous photos!!! Terrible article which seemed to have no clear point and was condescending. How did this article make it past San Diego Magazine's editors?