Edit ModuleShow Tags

Spicing Up Little Italy


Published:

(page 1 of 2)

Soon after moving here, my friend the East Coast snob made his first foray into San Diego’s Little Italy for lunch. “Well,” he said with a sniff, surveying the block-long stretch of India Street restaurants, “it’s a very Little Italy, isn’t it?”

Well, yes, it is. And no, it’s not.

In fact, in square blocks, San Diego’s Little Italy is bigger than San Francisco’s, St. Louis’ and New York’s combined. And that’s after having its heart bisected by Interstate 5. That happened more than 40 years ago—when San Diegans called it the Crosstown Freeway. But for the natives of Little Italy, the pain is still acute. Ask anyone who lived or worked here before the freeway came, and they’ll tell you it was a disaster for the neighborhood.

“I have roots here, and roots here,” says Rose Cresci, pointing first to the floor beneath her feet, then at her assisted-auburn hair. “The worst thing for all of us is when the freeway went in. It devastated this neighborhood. The freeway took our homes. Many of the old families moved to Hillcrest and Mission Hills, Point Loma, La Jolla.

“But,” she quickly adds, “I’m ecstatic about the comeback of Little Italy.”

Rose is standing in the center of The Gargoyle, the newest incarnation of the family grocery where she worked as a child some seven decades ago. Today, it’s a combination art gallery/café, operated by her youngest son, Dino. He’s the fourth generation of the family to run a business here. His niece, Jennifer Morrison, who works alongside him, is fifth generation. Rose, too, still works here—part-time.

“My great-grandparents, Angelo and Emanuela DeLuca, came to Little Italy in the early 1900s,” Dino says. “Their daughter, Julia, married Emilio Giolzetti, and their daughter, Rose, married my father, Sal Cresci.

“My family once owned all four corners here, at Fir and India. Every generation has worked this property,” he says. “So something inside of me told me I should do this.”

What Dino has done is transform the old family grocery—for a time it was leased out as a tool-and-die shop—into The Gargoyle, a mod arts-and-crafts gallery and cafe. A snapshot in the the café shows a group of rakish-looking chaps, posed team style, with the inscription “Warff Rats—1940 champs.” A baseball team photo?

“Well, no,” says Rose, “they didn’t play baseball. The Warff Rats were the 1940 champs, though. Dice champions. They played dice behind the drugstore,” she says, pointing kitty-corner across India and Fir to where Bay City Drugs—her father’s drugstore—once stood.

Behind The Gargoyle, climbing the south side of Fir Street, is a row of small homes where the Cresci forebears once lived. As part of his commitment to the revival of Little Italy, Dino Cresci launched his own redevelopment project on Fir, transforming the tiny houses into upscale design and fashion boutiques—including Villino Galleria (gifts, interior design), Carol Gardyne’s (hand-painted silks) and Tracy and Kerry McReynolds’ Sorella (clothing).

Shops like these, and restaurants like Trattoria Fantastica and Café Zucchero—opened in recent years by Joe Busalacchi and his family—are essential to Little Italy’s comeback. In the years between the mid-’50s and the early ’90s, the neighborhood shops were mostly devoured by a string of brake-and-muffler shops, salvage companies and car-rental agencies. But the tide is shifting again.
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

More »Related Stories

San Diego's Best Breakfast

Whether you lean savory or sweet, light or indulgent, boozy or caffeinated, there’s an a.m. meal for every taste. It’s time to rise and dine!

68 Great Date Ideas

Upgrade your evening plans with these ideas for where to take your partner and what to do when you get there

Reasons to Love San Diego Right Now

Our fifth annual feel-good, intentionally boastful list of all things SD
Edit Module
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Most Popular

  1. The Ultimate San Diego Bucket List
    Whether you’re a native or a newcomer, we’ve got 50 things every San Diegan must do. Now, get started!
  2. 26 BIG Ideas
    San Diego's most innovative thinkers tell us how they would make America’s Finest City a whole lot finer.
  3. Be Seen This Fall in Rancho Mirage
    Enter To Win a 2 Night Stay Package at The Luxurious Westin Mission Hills Golf Resort & Spa
  4. FIRST LOOK: Kindred
    Death metal vegan has arrived in San Diego. From the creative minds behind Craft & Commerce, Noble Experiment, LOVELIKEBEER—plus one of the country's top vegan chefs—comes Kindred. It's in South Park. It's gonna blow some minds.
  5. San Diego's Best New Restaurants 2015
    From upscale modern Mexican to a hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, food critic Troy Johnson reveals his 10 favorite new eateries of 2015
  6. The Ballast Point Effect
    The Great Craft Sale is on. Constellation Brands recently bought Ballast Point for $1 billion. Heineken bought Lagunitas. MillerCoors bought Saint Archer. What does that mean for the craft beer industry? Experts weigh in.
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Promotions

More Than 1,300 Prizes are Ready to be Given Away

What are you waiting for? Buy your raffle ticket now

Not Your Grandma's Orthotics

New year, new – shoe? Staying on your feet for long hours at a time just got a whole lot more comfortable with Wiivv’s BASE custom insoles

Go Ahead... Ask McMillin!

At McMillin Realty, we are encouraging you to bring us your real estate questions. We will answer these questions….. for free.
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit Module
Edit Module

Connect With Us:

Edit ModuleShow Tags

Sponsored

“Will You Marry Me”?

Sharon Jenks, CEO of 6 Degrees, on building business relationships

More Than 1,300 Prizes are Ready to be Given Away

What are you waiting for? Buy your raffle ticket now

Go Ahead... Ask McMillin!

At McMillin Realty, we are encouraging you to bring us your real estate questions. We will answer these questions….. for free.
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit Module Edit Module
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags