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A year later, Harney chef Rob Ruiz looks back on becoming SD's first sustainable sushi restaurant
Harney Sushi is a stereotype bucking a stereotype. Everyone on staff, including head chef Rob Ruiz, has the flat-billed baseball cap, tattooed look of a Southern California surf bro who cares mostly about waves, women, weed. With a DJ booth and neon fish tank, the hot spot looks very much live-for-tonight, shotgun-aspirin-tomorrow. And yet, in December of 2011, Harney showed remarkable long-term vision by becoming the city’s first sushi restaurant to go 100% sustainable seafood.
Now a year into their shift, I wanted to know: How sustainable are sustainable sushi restaurants? I’d heard the stats. After a massive study in 2006, a team of Ph.Ds from Halifax concluded, yep, the edible fish in the ocean will be gone (as in nothing left) by 2048. Ten years ago, a Canadian biologist told National Geographic that the world’s population of large fish (tuna, marlin, halibut, etc.) had dwindled to 10 percent. Naysayers have refuted those statistics as exaggerated, saying the Magnuson Fishery Conservation and Management Act—a measure to manage U.S. seafood—has been successful.
Few would argue that eating responsibly, in accordance with data on fish population, is a bad thing. And the biggest threats to fish population? Overfishing, pollution, habitat loss, climate change and… sushi.
The endangered Bluefin tuna is still served on many menus. Farmed salmon is everywhere. A handful of joints in San Francisco, Portland, New York and London are leading the charge for sustainability. But they remain the extreme minority.
Are sushi restaurants simply cavalier bankrupters of the ecosystem? Or are they just not willing to kill a Japanese tradition—now an American obsession—over loosey-goosey research?
The reasons for not going sustainable are usually A) It costs a restaurant too much and B) it’s simply not as tasty, thus ruining the business.
Rob Ruiz calls B.S.
Underneath that erect Harney cap, his face is demure, aversive of eye contact. Ruiz’s knuckles are tattooed to spell “GOD’S PLAN.” He’s strikingly humble, reserved, but shows an occasional flurry of awe and horror when talking of his recent trip to Japan, witnessing the culture (sushi and otherwise) still reeling from the tsunami.
Here for an omakase, Ruiz dishes creation after creation. There’s none of my longtime favorite, octopus (a sustainable hazard). There’s zero Bluefin. The salmon is farmed without antibiotics or hormones on Mt. Cook, high up in the New Zealand Alps. Ruiz’s reverence for the itamae art is classical; his flavors fusionist. And almost all he served was excellent, especially the Suzuki sashimi in browned butter (see “Best Things I Ate This Month”).
The seafood predicament means that, in 2050, omakases like this will suck. But it also means bad, bad things for the ocean and humankind overall. Ocean species filter toxins from the water, protect shorelines from flood, and reduce algae blooms (red tides).
“The fact is our oceans are in crisis,” says Ruiz. “I’m not talking about your favorite reggae band’s catchy tune of consciousness. I’m talking straight up acidified oceans and no fish.”
Why is sustainable seafood important?
Twenty years from now, we are going to look back on the way we currently fish the oceans as barbaric. Sustainable fish sourcing was my way to put all of my life experience and chef skills into making a positive impact.
How difficult was the process?
A lot easier than expected. There’s a lot more work in demanding traceability in the seafood we source. Sometimes we’re not able to offer certain species when they’re out of season. What was surprising is that more customers are excited about eating sustainably and educating themselves, rather than being turned off when we don’t have the threatened species they were trained to eat.
What fish is the hardest to do sustainable?
Tuna. It doesn’t matter what species of tuna you’re after—they’re all in short supply. The top-tier or “standard” fish at every sushi bar are only standard because of what was available 20 years ago. Think of a sushi chef like a farmer. A farmer will plant and harvest crops in accordance to what the season dictates. The same applies to sushi. During winter, I have 26 species of fish at their peak. Those are my first choice. Then I find who’s capturing them using sustainable practices and support those fisheries. Then we assimilate our sustainable fish into our popular rolls without disrupting the flavors we’re famous for.
What fish can’t you serve?
Bluefin tuna: It’s an endangered species and close to complete collapse.
Unagi (freshwater eel): It’s a threatened species that’s slowly being driven to extinction by destructive farming methods.
Tako (octopus): It’s a victim of what we call the “octopus bottleneck.” Octopus are caught using bottom trawlers that permanently destroy the sea floor. They’re brought to Japan and processed for sushi. Here they are mislabeled as “products of Japan,” which creates a loophole for piracy, corruption, and resulting destruction of our ocean.
Farmed salmon: Most farmed salmon is not salmon at all, but a species of trout Norwegian biologists selected for its ability to survive in overcrowded pens. This fake salmon is fed hormones and steroids, along with a little food coloring to turn them orange, and then labeled and sold to you as salmon. It’s horrible. The main issue that goes undetected is how the fake salmon are farmed in areas where real salmon flourish. The sea lice that multiply like locusts around the salmon farms branch out and feast on the wild salmon, literally eating them alive. I witnessed this in British Columbia fishing for salmon.
How have you replaced those items?
Tuna: We serve is U.S. Fishery, Atlantic yellowfin tuna. It meets the recommendations of our federal government’s sustainable fisheries management (NOAA, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration), and the Monterey Bay Aquariums “best” choice for sustainable practice.
Octopus: We only carry octopus a few months of the year when it’s in season, and we get it from Hokkaido Japan, Japan’s North Island where they harvest it sustainably.
Unagi: Our “faux-nagi” is the most exciting. We take sustainable black cod, aka butterfish, and prepare it the same way as you’d prepare unagi. It’s rich and delicious without the bones or skin of the unagi. And it’s super popular.
Biggest challenge in going sustainable?
The biggest challenge in going sustainable at Harney was standing up to all the purveyors who didn’t want to change or help. They had been selling products a certain way for so long, relying on the ignorance of the consumer to sell them what they want at the price they want. We weren’t going to stand for it anymore. If you don’t want our business, fine. We’ll go to the next guy.
I’ve heard it costs too much for restaurants to go sustainable.
One of the greatest myths. It’s actually quite the opposite. We made this change during one of the worst economic downturns in history, so there was no way we were gonna raise prices for a clientele that’s supported us for 12 years. There are short-term costs to changing over. Our costs spiked when we made the initial transition. But after you make the change it becomes more profitable; our costs are at historic lows. At Harney, we took a step-by-step approach and changed over to sustainable one species at a time, always taking quality and taste into account along with how we harvested the particular species. So one at a time we would measure weight, yield, and portion control. It was like coming out with a new menu, but the sustainability of each ingredient got added to the list of necessary criteria. As with any new menu, there was trial and error and dish development. But never did we find an item to be too expensive to use. We just had to educate ourselves on how to best utilize the new proteins.
How exhausting is the research?
It never ends. Research and data collection improve and update every day, so you must stay on top of the issues daily. I have focused on sushi since 2005, but I was trained in classic French and Hawaiian regional cuisine. When I was at the Hualalai Resort on the Big Island we had our own aquaculture practices where we farmed our own shrimp and moi (Hawaiian mullet). The Hawaiian people were the ultimate leaders in sustainability because they had no other alternative. They fashioned everything they needed for life out of plants, and farmed their own fish in ancient ponds that still had fish in them when I was going to school there.
How do customers react when they can’t get, say, octopus?
At first they’re let down, of course. But then they hear why. And then they try other items like miru-ga—a giant clam that is sustainable, has a similar texture, but is a little more sweet and versatile. They’re elated.
Biggest “who woulda known” things you’ve learned?
The Japanese used to throw fatty tuna into the trash. It barely qualified as food for cats until after WWII. The original ultimate fish for sushi was the Tai Snapper. It was only after the US occupation of Japan, that we introduced them to butter and fatty foods, and the love of toro (tuna) began. Also that San Diego is a hub of leaders in sustainability. NOAA has its Southwestern Center for Conservation here in La Jolla. Scripps Institute is a global leader in marine research. And the only sustainable fish hatchery on the West Coast is here.
What do you find lacking in the seafood system? What would help the movement?
Transparency, traceability, and awareness all need to become priorities. Right now everyone complains that you can’t define sustainability. That it’s confusing, or a trend. We need to get all the cards on the table so that consumers can make informed decisions with their dollars. Now, in this time of “conscious consumerism,” we have a chance to make the changes that will save our future.
Are more sushi restaurants going sustainable?
There are about a half dozen in Seattle, a couple in Chicago, a new one in New York. They’re huge in the EU. I set up a “sustainable sushi” Google alert and a get a new email about twice a week about new sustainable sushi bars. With direct interest from mags like The Economist, it’s the beginning of a global change.
Some people claim that sustainable sushi simply isn’t as good. That the fish that are endangered are overfished because they’re the best…
The fish that are endangered now are endangered out of tradition and religious and cultural beliefs. These beliefs were based on survival. When people and cultures start to accept the truth about the state of the oceans, they’ll see the change that needs to be made. Sadly the fish that are in jeopardy now are not the most delicious. Every season behind a sushi bar brings so many new species and delicacies. There are 5,000 sushi bars in Tokyo and just as many philosophies about sushi.
For anyone interested in reading more about sustainable seafood, Ruiz suggests the following resources:
WEB
International Seafood Sustainability Foundation
Scripps Institute of Oceanography
BOOKS
FILMS
Harney Sushi uses edible QR codes
Harney Sushi
Surf’n Slaw founder Kumi Alexander is introducing local farmers market crowds to okonomiyaki, the savory Japanese pancake she grew up eating
After 15 years married, my husband and I tend to agree on most things. But there’s one argument we both refuse to bend on—I prefer okonomiyaki Osaka-style, and he’s a die-hard Hiroshima-style devotee. (To be fair, we both adore both styles, but at this point, it’s just fun to have a low-stakes disagreement.)
Okonomiyaki is one of Japan’s greatest comfort foods, a savory pancake that’s about the size of a DVD, if you aren’t too young to know what that is. It’s not terribly hard to make—it’s flour, eggs, dashi stock or water, and a whole heap of shredded cabbage, plus optional fillings like green onions, pork belly, or bonito flakes, all cooked fresh on a flat top griddle. Drizzle some kewpie mayo and okonomiyaki sauce on top, and you’re hot to go.
However, it’s not easy to make well, and as you now know, people have capital-O Opinions about Osaka-versus-Hiroshima. Hiroshima-style layers the ingredients one by one rather than mixing them together, adding a layer of soba or udon noodles and topping it all off with a fried egg. For Osaka-style, all the ingredients are mixed together and then cooked on the griddle, so every bite includes every ingredient in a hodgepodge of deliciousness. (One Osaka variation called modan-yaki does include soba noodles mixed in the batter, but they’re not traditionally used in that regional version.)
Despite a childhood spent in Osaka, Japan, Kumi Alexander specializes in making Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. “Okonomiyaki has been part of my life for as long as I can remember,” she explains. “My parents ran their own business when I was growing up, so Saturdays were often busy, and okonomiyaki was one of my mother’s go-to lunches because it was simple and easy to make.”
Alexander came to San Diego seven years ago with a desire to bring a part of her culture with her—not just a product, but a feeling. “When I thought about what could do that, the answer was almost obvious: okonomiyaki,” she says.
She originally launched Surf’n Slaw as a mobile pop-up food stand in August 2025, offering what Alexander calls Japanese-meets-California okonomiyaki. “Our full Surf’n Slaw includes cabbage, noodles, umami dough, beef, shrimp, and vegetables,” she explains. The menu also has a “Green Wave Slaw,” an Osaka-style version that can be made vegan and gluten-free, as well as matcha drinks.
Currently, Surf’n Slaw pops up at farmers markets in North Park, Scripps Ranch, Hillcrest, La Jolla, and La Mesa, as well as other local markets and community events. Eventually, she may expand to a permanent location, but that’s a future goal. And while Alexander hopes that one day okonomiyaki will be as well-known to American audiences as ramen or sushi, for now, she’s just happy to share a bit of home with San Diego.
Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
San Diego entrepreneur Kenji Blouin-Ito is turning a tiny Uptown Inn space into a destination for bentos, coffee, snacks, and more
Tokyo unquestionably holds the title as one of the best, if not the best, food cities of the world. But despite the plethora of Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurants and hole-in-the-wall ramen joints, you’d be remiss in walking past glowing signs beckoning you to enter one of the 56,000-plus konbini across the country.
Konbini cafes like Lawson’s, FamilyMart, and 7-Eleven may look like run-of-the-mill convenience stores, but convenience store culture is a completely different animal there. Absent are the sad, floppy hot dogs sizzling sweatily on a rotating wheel of misery. Instead, konbini are stocked with a bevy of hot and cold drinks in every imaginable flavor, meals like tamago sandos (Japanese egg salad sandwiches) and prepacked bento boxes, snacks like onigiri (handheld triangles of rice and seaweed, often filled with fish or pickled plum), and even limited-edition merchandise (not unlike Wawa’s line of merch).
Soon, Hillcrest will get a taste of konbibi culture. Hako Hako opens in front of Uptown Inn by Vantaggio, next to Ramen Ryoma, in early 2027.
Kenji Blouin-Ito, a half-Japanese, half-French San Diego native grew up eating Japanese food at home and during trips across the Pacific. “I remember looking forward to eating bentos on the train,” he says, grabbing quick items to munch on without sacrificing quality or succumbing to cost. When in France, he saw a rise of appreciation for casual Japanese cuisine, “long before it happened here.”
So he decided to bring it here. After AB 626 passed in 2018 to allow different jurisdictions to permit Microenterprise Home Kitchen Operations (MEHKOs), Blouin-Ito launched Foodnome, the first legal marketplace for homemade food in the US. Eventually, the national nonprofit The Cook Alliance took over the project, leaving him open to the next new idea but with the experience of running a food-based business.
“That experience changed how I think about food, not just what makes it good but what makes it work,” he explains. Bento boxes felt affordable in a time of inflation, convenient in a bustling world, and versatile to a variety of palates. When he got the chance to open a konbini himself, he went for it.
His family runs Uptown Inn, a mix of apartments and hotel rooms that’s seen increased food traffic over the past few years. “We had a small space in front of the building that wasn’t being used, and it just made sense,” he says. Hako means “box” in Japanese, a reference to both bentos and small space from where he’ll sling freshly made bentos, coffee, drinks, pastries, snacks, and a small retail selection.
Hako Hako will initially open for morning and afternoon hours, but you don’t have to wait until next year to get a taste of Japanese culture. Blouin-Ito’s concept is popping up at various coffee shops around San Diego, with a few coming up: Easy Does It on September 19 and Cafe Moto on October 17. Until then, practice the art of gaman: patience with grace.
Hako Hako opens at 819 University Avenue in Hillcrest in early 2027.
Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
At Vi at La Jolla Village, residents don't have to choose between security and adventure, connection and independence. They get all of it.
Today’s seniors are more connected than ever, with a renewed focus on retirement as a time of discovery and enriching experiences. The ultimate reward for a retirement well-earned is the wisdom to appreciate it all, and what better place to enjoy that unique perspective than Vi at La Jolla Village, in the heart of San Diego.
All-access pass to good living.
As a Continuing Care Retirement Community (CCRC), Vi provides access to a connected and fulfilling community while making it easy to plan for future care, should the need ever arise. With a care plan in place, residents enjoy greater financial predictability and long-term value, freeing them to focus on making the most out of retirement.
Resort-style amenities at the epicenter of a cultural hub like San Diego offer a retirement experience unlike any other. Paired with exceptional dining, spacious accommodations and dedicated staff, the best of maintenance-free living is all around. And with the introduction of Vista 360 Well-Being, Vi’s panoramic approach to wellness, there are more ways than ever for residents to access it all.
The harmony of mind, body and community.
The key to longevity is striking the right balance in maintaining an active lifestyle with an active mind in a fulfilling community. With newly renovated community spaces and restaurants, Vista brings a variety of opportunities for residents to elevate their well-being through Vi-exclusive “Signature Experiences.”
Vista Enrich takes an evidence-based approach to brain vitality, keeping residents at the forefront of cognitive health through exergaming (exercising + gaming), nutritional plans and informative workshops. It is also home to The Brain Vitality Studio, an innovative facility dedicated to cognitive fitness that has garnered national recognition.
Vista Discover invites residents into stimulating educational experiences, from chef-led cooking demos and guided wine tastings to lectures at local universities and intimate lectures following cultural outings.
While Vista Enrich focuses on brain health and Vista Discover engages residents intellectually, Vista Explore cultivates a sense of adventure through curated travel and local excursions. But broadening one’s horizons doesn’t always require a plane ticket. One recent event brought a taste of the world right to the community: an onsite “jazz cruise” featuring live music and global cuisine served at a series of themed “ports” all within the community’s own ballroom.
“Location, location, location”
One of the biggest perks of life at Vi at La Jolla Village is its proximity to just about everything. With easy access to transportation and local attractions just steps away, residents can explore and engage with their community at their own pace.
“There are trolley and bus stops within a 5-minute walk that will get you to the beach, UCSD Campus, medical appointments, downtown La Jolla or San Diego, et cetera. We rarely use our car,” said resident Tom Yager.
With the best of San Diego just steps away, residents don’t just live in the city, they live within reach of everything that makes it special.
The best of all worlds.
At Vi at La Jolla Village, retirement isn’t a chapter to slow down; it’s an invitation to discover more. Tailored community experiences created by Vista, paired with the vibrant pulse of San Diego just outside the door, mean that residents don’t have to choose between security and adventure, connection and independence. They get all of it.
This is what an all-access pass to good living looks like: the comforts of an elevated lifestyle, a community built for growth and a city made for discovery – all in one place.
To learn more about Vi at La Jolla Village or for details on available floor plans, visit ViatLaJollaVillage.com/SDM.
With Sosal Line, Heidi Greenwood and Juerie Masters are importing traceable seafood from small producers and building a global pantry business along the way
No matter your job, it’s helpful to find some sort of joy in it to avoid going completely insane. Some people savor the variety of personalities when dealing with customers. Others find comfort in the predictability of closing a bar after last call, counting tips and wiping counters. Perhaps achieving Inbox Zero really gets your blood pumping, or shipping a new product design sparks joy.
For Heidi Greenwood and Juerie Masters, work doesn’t get better than logistics and operations.
“[We] both love all the unsexy parts of supply chain and backend management,” laughs Greenwood. Tracking outbound orders? Ensuring compliance? Managing inbound freight? Stop me if this is getting too hot for you!
Not enough people think about the unsexy reality of running a business before launch, but effectively and consistently keeping an eye on operations separates successful companies from out-of-business ones. Both Masters and Greenwood already own their own businesses—Greenwood is behind the wine zine Campestre Mag and runs the online wine shop Esquina, and Masters co-owns Clos Wine Shop and Fintastic Provisions in University Heights with her husband Paul. Apparently, these gigs weren’t enough to satisfy their collective yearning for spreadsheets and inventory maintenance.
So, they decided to start another business together—Sosal Line, a San Diego-based import and distribution company specializing in global pantry items. The pair launched Sosal Line at the beginning of 2025 and currently only sell three brands of tinned fish, but Greenwood says they plan to expand their offerings as they discover other small or family-run businesses that share their values.
“We want to work with brands and with products that really have a sense of place and actually tell a story—not just the product, but the people behind it too,” she says.
Masters and Greenwood are both Korean-American and named this burgeoning business after Haenyeo, the legendary free-diving women of Jeju Island in South Korea. Traditional Haenyeo equipment and garb include oribal (swim fins), yeoncheol (lead belts to help them sink), and the company’s namesake sosal, a hand-held fishing spear (sometimes called jaksal).
The average person, if sitting completely still, can stay underwater for up to a minute and a half at most. Haenyeo can hold their breath for up to three minutes while actively foraging, harvesting, and swimming. Scientists say these diving women spend more time underwater than any other group of humans on earth. Not badass enough for you? The average age of Haenyeo is around 70.
“Fishing is a strong heritage for Koreans, and it’s the same here in San Diego with the Portuguese settlers,” Greenwood explains. (We aren’t the tuna capital of the US for no reason.)
Sosal Line carries 100 percent traceable, wild caught fish from Galicia in Northern Spain and the Pacific Northwest, all family-owned companies who don’t compromise on sustainable practices. Tinned fish has never been more popular—or more debated—but there’s more to it than cute labels designed for maximum Instagram reach. “I want to know who I’m purchasing from,” says Greenwood. One of their suppliers, Craft Fish Co., which is based in San Diego but fishes in the PNW, is run by JJ and Jessica Gerritsen. JJ catches, Jessica packages, and it’s a business relationship on a first-name basis. “You can’t find that when you’re working with some nameless brand.”
San Diegans can find Sosal Line products at local retailers like Clos/Fintastic (obviously), allmine in Oceanside, Always Hungry Grocery & Goods in Carlsbad, J. Brix Wines in San Marcos, Collins & Coupe/Tablespoon in North Park, and Green Acre in La Jolla. They’re also available in select retailers in Northern California, Oregon, Arizona, and strangely enough, South Carolina. Expanding its client base is, of course, a goal. But not at the expense of quality or joy of discovery.
“I would love to see people try food from different cultures and be excited about it,” says Greenwood. “Maybe make them want to travel to experience different areas of the world.”
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
The folks behind Oddish Wine and Lost Cause Meadery are partnering with Bica to open an all-day cafe, coffee shop, wine bar, and restaurant near La Mesa Village
La Mesa: a bucolic, hill-dappled city long regarded as a somewhat frumpy, never quite trendy bridge between the urban cool of Mid-City and the rural sprawls of East County. La Mesa’s population clocks in at around 4 percent of the city of San Diego’s—fewer than Chula Vista, Oceanside, Escondido, Carlsbad, El Cajon, Vista, San Marcos, and Encinitas, in that order. It’s home to a killer Oktoberfest, one of the best charter high schools in the state, and a theatrical mayor who tools around town in a golf cart (and so far, hasn’t cut any arts funding or closed public bathrooms).
But any area that’s only 20 minutes from downtown San Diego and under 20 miles to Mission Bay will only stay under the radar for so long. Slowly but surely, bits and bobs from San Diego’s cultural tastemakers have been popping up all over town. Dark Horse Coffee and the boutique Small Batch both opened in La Mesa in 2018. Stella Jean’s and Pop Pie are coming later this year. Native Poppy is building its new headquarters and studio this fall. After a year in business, the new owners of JK’s Greek have established themselves as one of the best Greek restaurants in the county.
Next year, La Mesa will get one of its most ambitious projects yet. Billy and Suzanna Beltz, owners of Lost Cause Meadery and Oddish Wine, are pouring everything they have into renovating a 5,000-square-foot building between the Village and MacArthur Park to open a wine/beer bar, coffee shop, all-day cafe, and wine shop.
The concept doesn’t have a name (yet), and Bica in Normal Heights will come on as a partner to run the restaurant aspect and coffee program (which also won’t be called Bica. Still lots of naming decisions to be made). But the Beltz’s vision is to create something in La Mesa that doesn’t exist yet—a community gathering space open from morning until night that’s family-friendly, creatively designed, and well… cool.
The building has been around since the 1940s, first operating as a neighborhood market, then butcher shop, secondhand children’s store, electronics store, dry cleaners, and bike shop. The Beltzses say they plan to keep the “soul and character” of the space as much as possible, highlighting original details like a barrel-shaped wooden roof, brightening up the corner building by utilizing the large front windows, and eventually building an outdoor dining/drinking space and kid-friendly area—a must for the neighborhood’s plethora of young families. They tapped all locals for the design and build: Tecscape Design, design consultant Carly Miller-Chen (who owns Ayi boutique in South Park) to create the space, and local contractor CLTVT.
Starting in the morning, the space will offer coffee and light breakfast items before transitioning to lunch and dinner menus, plus a full bar that will feature Oddish and Lost Cause products as well as other local wines, beers, ciders, and other beverages alongside an aperitivo program and low-ABV cocktails and spritzes. Food-wise, they plan to install a wood-fired oven and rotisserie, but expect more menu details to be revealed closer to opening.
There will also be a small retail space focused on natural wines and ciders from places like Raging Cider & Mead in San Marcos and other San Diego and Baja California makers. But don’t expect run-of-the-mill options from the guy who makes weird wines and mead, the oldest alcoholic beverage in human history (hardly TikTok trend material). “We have a unique perspective… Hopefully we can expand some palates and minds in the process,” says Billy.
Community is the heart of the project, more than food, more than drinks. “We have a young family. [Bica owners] Manny [Da Luz] and Charlie [Knowles] have families,” says Billy. Suzanna adds: “People want a space that they know they’re going to get really amazing food, really fun drinks, but they can also feel like they can bring their kids during the weeknights.” It won’t be North Park 2.0, although many families now living in La Mesa came from various neighborhoods across Mid-City (like the Beltzes). It’s filling a void. It’s something they can build from the ground up. And just maybe, it’s something that will surprise people who have yet to discover La Mesa’s potential.
Oddish Wine/Lost Cause Meadery’s new concept is projected to open by the end of 2027 at 8495 La Mesa Blvd.
Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
Laika Nur, MD, takes her love of volleyball from the court to the clinic as team physician for the San Diego Mojo
Growing up, Laika Nur, MD, Scripps Clinic sports medicine specialist, loved watching beach volleyball when the Association of Volleyball Professionals tour came to her hometown of Chicago. A talented volleyball player herself, she remembers sitting in the stands all day, and once, even got a couple autographs. Years later, Dr. Nur was attending a professional event focused on women’s sports, and the discussion turned to a new professional women’s volleyball league. The general manager and coaching staff for San Diego’s team, the Mojo, happened to be in attendance, and Dr. Nur took the opportunity to ask them if they needed a team doctor. Flash forward to the Mojo’s inaugural 2024 season, when Dr. Nur officially became the team physician. Click here to read more about Dr. Nur and how she incorporates lessons she learned on the court into her practice.
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