When you do a $2.5 Million renovation, you don’t just promote the banquets guy to chef de cuisine. Especially when you’ve got a hefty rep like El Bizcocho, which has seen serious young talent from Gavin Kaysen (now at Cafe Boulud) to Patrick Ponsaty (now a Master French Chef).
Announced today, Rancho Bernardo Inn has tapped another top talent for when El Biz is reborn as Avant later this year. James Kozak was a chef de cuisine at Charlie Trotter’s and Trotter’s To Go in Chicago. Trotter’s has since famously closed, jettisoning a bunch of promising chefs into the free agent market. He also served as executive chef at Talon Lodge in Alaska and chef de cuisine at Juniper in Colorado. He’ll be heading the line opening night. (This news is minutes old, so there’s no bio info. But you can view Kozak’s entire CV on his LinkedIn profile.)
Jackson and chef de cuisine Kyle Wiegand created a whole new menu for The Grill, part deux, and it’s focused around a six-foot, custom wood-fired grill with a diner-facing fireplace. The grill is six-foot, so is the oven, and there are two rotisseries. It continues the San Diego movement of open-fire cooking, and takes it to a whole new level. San Diego grill master Phil Roxworthy designed it all.
The redesign added five outdoor fire pit tables, an overhead wooden trellis, craftsman teak furniture and more than doubled the capacity of the space that overlooks the Torrey Pines Golf Course.
The new menu will have classics like Jackson’s famed Drugstore Burger, plus a spin on the Monte Cristo (wood-roasted turkey, applewood ham, gouda on raisin brioche with strawberry-green pepper jam); an oak-grilled tri-tip done Santa Maria style with pinquito beans, salsa, home made steak sauce and grilled bread; and a hot smoked black pepper salmon with peperonata and crispy polenta.
Wiegand is a home brewer and member of the San Diego Brewers’ Guild, so his 12 San Diego crafts on tap should always be solid. He’s also planning a series of seasonal beer collaborations (first is Sept. 21 with Alesmith Brewing). The wines will showcase some of Baja’s top, and craft cocktails are also on offer (blood-orange mojito, jalapeño margarita, a “local” mule, a boulevardier, etc.)
It’s open today. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner every day from here on out. 11480 North Torrey Pines Rd. 858.777.6641.
Now please enjoy the first known photos of the brand spanking new Grill.
Lean protein, not-lean dessert at Oceana Coastal Kitchen
By Troy Johnson
Evans Hotels recently put $2.1 million into renovating their signature restaurant at the Catamaran Resort. It needed it. The Catamaran was that beloved local spot in Pacific Beach that felt left behind in the Magnum P.I. tropical white-guy era. Along with a pretty stunning floor-to-ceiling jellyfish aquarium in the middle of the restaurant, the renovation maximized the outdoor space overlooking Mission Bay and added a significant raw bar. For the new Oceana Costal Kitchen, they pulled in Steven Riemer, a vet of their other high-end restaurant A.R. Valentien at the Lodge at Torrey Pines.
I had a lunch there recently, and identified a sure-fire way to milk a perfect experience from the new attraction. Now that America has decided that bread or carbs of any sort lead to a form of bodily hell, the first portion of this plan fits perfectly into any diet. The second half throws all that out the window in a gluttonous pursuit of joy. So go, sit on the patio, and order:
YELLOWTAIL CRUDO: This dish relies on some supremely sourced raw yellowtail. Silky, lean and delicious. It’s then lightly bathed with aguachile, which is a chile-lime ceviche style that originated in Sinoloa, Mexico. Chef then adds some avocado for a healthy fat component and some mildly pickled radishes. One of the better crudos I’ve tasted.
NEW SCHOOL BANANA PUDDING: That’s right. You ate light and responsibly, and now it’s time to maintain balance in the universe by blowing those efforts. This riff on banana pudding has a vanilla cookie crumble, topped with carmelized bananas (one of life’s greatest sweets), with caramel sauce, whipped cream and a little mint. It’s a banana pudding that eats almost like a carrot cake.
Catamaran Resort unveils its new $2.1 million restaurant
By Troy Johnson | Photography by Paul Body
There’s a fine line between being “a classic” and being a little behind. When you’re an iconic property like Catamaran Resort in Mission Bay, the challenge is deciding when to pull the trigger on a massive overhaul. Reupholstering chairs won’t do. We’re talking a $2.1 million reinvention that requires blowing out walls, hiring renowned architects and designers (Kristine Smith Design Studio, who did both Disney’s Grand California Hotel and The Lodge at Torrey Pines), and building an 800-gallon vertical jellyfish aquarium smack dab in the middle of the room. That’s some change. And Feb. 3 marks their soft open when you can see and taste it for yourself. (Note: Soft openings are really rehearsals, so exercise a little patience.)
Named Oceana Coastal Kitchen, the 8,200 square-foot restaurant is the iconic property’s first new dining concept in 30 years, and continues the rise of good food in Pacific and Mission Beaches. They’ve expanded the al fresco seats looking out over Mission Bay, plus a 12-seat private dining room and a 16-seat semi-private room. The chef is Steven Riemer, who put in a decade-plus at the Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel before spending seven years as executive sous at The Lodge at Torrey Pines. His menu is being called “a playful take on California cuisine.” If food at The Lodge (owned by the same parent company, Evans Hotels) is any indication of quality, expect top-notch, local, seasonal ingredients. Riemer’s debut menu includes dishes like duck risotto with Japanese squash, Niman Ranch pork chop with goat cheese grits and a California seabass with ancho chile, orange, beets, faro and baby kale. There’ll also be a raw bar and a sushi bar. Pay close attention Riemer’s desserts, since pastry was his specialty at The Ritz. At Oceana he’s got banana pudding, apple empanadas with buttermilk ice cream, espresso brulee and Meyer lemon Rice Krispie treats.
And now for the unveiling. Please enjoy the first known photos of Catamaran’s multimillion-dollar overhaul:
For Executive Chef Emily Brubaker, Omni La Costa Resort & Spa feels like home. She grew up just a mile-and-a-half away from the 400-acre property and fondly recalls walking the golf course perimeter as a kid. Though her ambitions led her away from San Diego for nearly two decades in which she honed her craft in some of the highest of high-profile Las Vegas restaurants—including triple Michelin-starred Joël Robuchon at MGM Grand—they ultimately brought her back to North County.
Courtesy of Omni La Costa
Today, the classically French-trained chef, who’s fresh off a victory on NBC’s Yes, Chef!, judged by Martha Stewart and José Andrés, oversees Omni La Costa Resort & Spa’s seven distinct dining concepts. Her goal is to elevate the resort’s culinary program with her creative, hyperlocal ingredient-driven approach while maintaining the Spanish- inspired flavors and fresh California coastal cuisine that are the bedrock of its culinary identity.
“The San Diego food scene is really growing, and in North County alone, it’s really exploded in the last five years,” Brubaker says. “There are Michelin stars, beautiful tasting menus, craft bakers, and all this food—when I was growing up in La Costa, it was fish tacos. Now there are really cool things popping up, and I’m so happy to be here to see where it’s going to go.”
Brubaker gives chefs de cuisine at each individual restaurant autonomy, however, her influence is evident across the resort.
For example, lobby restaurant Bar Traza serves as Omni La Costa’s culinary centerpiece and features bold Spanish flavors in a lively, social atmosphere. Brubaker overhauled the menu to be more consistent and centered on casual bites with that signature vibe. Think smoky paprika, vibrant citrus, and Spanish meats and cheeses.
At VUE, the focus is on seasonal offerings, California coastal cuisine, and Baja-inspired dishes. She and Chef de Cuisine Cameron Dixon change the menu biannually, which heading into summer, will highlight farm-fresh produce and hyperlocal ingredients—the resort even has its own herb garden and honeybee hives.
Courtesy of Omni La Costa
Poolside dining options are leaning into the country’s 250th this summer with a selection of classic American dishes with an Omni La Costa twist. And Bob’s Steak & Chop House (Brubaker is a trained butcher) offers a classic steakhouse experience with elevated service.
The chef and company also plan menus for special events at the resort where her creativity can really shine. For an upcoming National Ski Association dinner, the banquet hall will be transformed into an Alpine-themed winter wonderland complete with a snow machine, savory sausages, and melty, decadent raclette. A recent dinner was built around the Carlsbad Flower Fields and each course was matched to a color of ranunculus (Did you know pink dragonfruit are grown in North County? You do now.).
“It’s my zen to be in the kitchen playing with food,” Brubaker says.
Omni La Costa’s culinary program is a key part of the resort experience. And with Brubaker’s leadership, it’s becoming a draw for visitors and locals alike.
“These aren’t just hotel restaurants, these are restaurants that you should go to. They’re destinations, and I’m really hoping for the future that’s where we’re going,” Brubaker says.
Courtesy of Omni La Costa
Brubaker is also channeling her experience on Yes, Chef! into the culture at Omni La Costa—more emphasis on teamwork and collaboration, empowering her staff to share constructive critiques, and embracing different perspectives. Alongside her leadership role, Brubaker has become an advocate for mental health in the hospitality industry, serving as chief ambassador for the Burnt Chef Project and serves on the Board of Advisors for the Apex Culinary Program, where she mentors and develops future talent.
The Best Food & Drink Events This Month: September-October 2014
Simply one of the best food events in San Diego, held on the lawn at the Lodge at Torrey Pines. The Lodge and A.R. Valentien chef Jeff Jackson were among the first in San Diego to really adopt local foodways, and Celebrate the Craft is dedicated to those area people who make good food and drink—farmers, ranchers, vintners, brewers, you name it. Chefs include Jackson, Paul Arias (The Fishery), Pete Balistreri (Tender Greens), Nathan Coulon (True Food), Antonio Friscia (Don Chido), Christian Graves (Jsix), Matt Gordon (Urban Solace), Jason Knibb (Nine-Ten), Javier Plascencia (Romesco, Mision 19), Carl Schroeder (Market), Andrew Spurgin (Bespoke Event and Menu Design), Brian Sinnott (ex-1500 Ocean), Monica Szepesy (Q’ero), Brian La Bonte (Miho Gastrotruck) and Katie Grebow (ex-Café Chloe). Wineries include Brewer-Clifton (Santa Barbara), Falkner (Temecula), Far Niente (Oakville), Joseph Phelps (Napa), Paradigm (Napa), Palumbo (Temecula), Robert Craig, (Napa), Tablas Creek (Paso), etc.
Sriracha Festival
WHEN: Sept. 20, 2-6PM
WHERE: Liberty Station, Luce Court & Legacy Plaza, 2641 Truxtun Rd.
Sriracha. Everyone except those who live within sniffing distance of its factory loves the potent hot sauce. It’s to this generation what Tabasco was to the previous one. And now Randy Clemens, beer writer and author of the Sriracha Cookbook series, has partnered with Food GPS to throw the city’s first Sriracha Festival. Chefs from Aqui Es Texcoco, The Bellows, Gang Kitchen, Hash House A Go Go, The Patio, Slater’s, Stone Brewing, Supernatural Sandwiches, Urban St. Brewing, Urge Gastropub and Wow Wow Waffle will serve their best rooster-sauce creations. Drinks from Iron Fist, Stone Brewing, Portola Coffee Lab and Los Angeles Ale Works will also be on hand.
Autumnal Equinox Dinner at Suzie’s Farm
WHEN: Sept. 20, 5PM-10PM
WHERE: The Grove at Suzie’s Farm, 2570 Sunset Ave., South San Diego
Suzie’s Farm grows good food. They’re also very good at getting San Diegans interested in farm culture and grow life. Only good things. For their fourth annual Autumnal Equinox Dinner they honor the turning of the season and give a little thanks to the summer harvest with a four-course meal on the farm, paired with beer and wine. This year’s meal will be cooked by Ryan Johnston, the excellent chef of Whisknladle (and its casual offshoot, Prepkitchen). If you’ve never had a dinner on a farm as the sun goes down, it’s a life-affirming moment. This is a chance to do that.
The Best Food & Drink Events This Month: September-October 2014
Simply one of the best food events in San Diego, held on the lawn at the Lodge at Torrey Pines. The Lodge and A.R. Valentien chef Jeff Jackson were among the first in San Diego to really adopt local foodways, and Celebrate the Craft is dedicated to those area people who make good food and drink—farmers, ranchers, vintners, brewers, you name it. Chefs include Jackson, Paul Arias (The Fishery), Pete Balistreri (Tender Greens), Nathan Coulon (True Food), Antonio Friscia (Don Chido), Christian Graves (Jsix), Matt Gordon (Urban Solace), Jason Knibb (Nine-Ten), Javier Plascencia (Romesco, Mision 19), Carl Schroeder (Market), Andrew Spurgin (Bespoke Event and Menu Design), Brian Sinnott (ex-1500 Ocean), Monica Szepesy (Q’ero), Brian La Bonte (Miho Gastrotruck) and Katie Grebow (ex-Café Chloe). Wineries include Brewer-Clifton (Santa Barbara), Falkner (Temecula), Far Niente (Oakville), Joseph Phelps (Napa), Paradigm (Napa), Palumbo (Temecula), Robert Craig, (Napa), Tablas Creek (Paso), etc.
Sriracha Festival
WHEN: Sept. 20, 2-6PM
WHERE: Liberty Station, Luce Court & Legacy Plaza, 2641 Truxtun Rd.
Sriracha. Everyone except those who live within sniffing distance of its factory loves the potent hot sauce. It’s to this generation what Tabasco was to the previous one. And now Randy Clemens, beer writer and author of the Sriracha Cookbook series, has partnered with Food GPS to throw the city’s first Sriracha Festival. Chefs from Aqui Es Texcoco, The Bellows, Gang Kitchen, Hash House A Go Go, The Patio, Slater’s, Stone Brewing, Supernatural Sandwiches, Urban St. Brewing, Urge Gastropub and Wow Wow Waffle will serve their best rooster-sauce creations. Drinks from Iron Fist, Stone Brewing, Portola Coffee Lab and Los Angeles Ale Works will also be on hand.
Autumnal Equinox Dinner at Suzie’s Farm
WHEN: Sept. 20, 5PM-10PM
WHERE: The Grove at Suzie’s Farm, 2570 Sunset Ave., South San Diego
Suzie’s Farm grows good food. They’re also very good at getting San Diegans interested in farm culture and grow life. Only good things. For their fourth annual Autumnal Equinox Dinner they honor the turning of the season and give a little thanks to the summer harvest with a four-course meal on the farm, paired with beer and wine. This year’s meal will be cooked by Ryan Johnston, the excellent chef of Whisknladle (and its casual offshoot, Prepkitchen). If you’ve never had a dinner on a farm as the sun goes down, it’s a life-affirming moment. This is a chance to do that.
Island travel tips to help you and your family plan the perfect getaway
Hawai‘i is perhaps the most famous vacation destination in the world, welcoming 8 million visitors annually to an eight-island archipelago with a permanent population of only 1.3 million. But despite Hawai‘i’s popularity, it’s delightfully easy to stake out a small piece of paradise all your own, and define your family’s visit as you see fit. Whether you are hikers, sunbathers, swimmers, or wine-and-diners, whether you prefer beach lazing or star gazing, there is a perfect place for you and your family in these sunny, solicitous isles.
