NEW IN TOWN: Sushi Tadokoro

Old Town gets traditional Edomae-style sushi joint


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Don't you just love the sushi where they put the chipotle mayo on the fried thingies? No? Well, then Old Town's newest raw-fish arrival Sushi Tadokoro might be up your alley. Chef-owner Takeaki Tadokoro just opened this 28-seat traditional Edomae-style sushi joint in Old Town. His inspiration? Ginza's high-end sushi restaurants and the exacting craft of Jiro Dreams of Sushi, says Tadokoro. It's not as hardcore as Sushi Shirohama, the Convoy hole-in-the-wall where anyone attempting a sake bomb is removed via a trapdoor in the floor. Tadokoro does serve some rolls, after all (scandalous). But the itamae—who made sushi in Japan for 14 years before putting in time at Surfside Sushi (Pacific Beach) and Shino Sushi + Kappo (in Little Italy, run by Sushi Ota protoge Robert Nakamura)—focuses mostly on sashimi and nigiri, along with premium sake. His seafood (some from Tsukiji, some local catch like uni) is displayed in a classic wooden box instead of a glass case. He's also got dishes like saikyo yaki (the ancient Japanese marinade of Saikyo Miso, mirin, and sake) Chilean seabass, creamed salmon croquettes and steamed clams with sake. The top-shelf sake is served in handmade Edo Kiriko cups—a glass crafting technique dating back to early 19th century Tokyo.

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Restaurant reviews, food trends, top cocktails, wine, beer and generally the best eats and drinks in San Diego, by Food Editor and general good guy Troy Johnson.

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