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Feed3 Stunning Summer Shelling Beans from Specialty Produce
Coco, Mauve Runner and Tongue of Fire beans
When you think of summer, chances are the hot-weather foods you revel in are watermelons, tomatoes, peaches, and berries. But one of the marvelous if less prominent stars of summer produce is the shelling bean. Usually, these are grown with the intent of drying, but, in fact, they are delicious—and quite beautiful—fresh. There are hundreds of varieties, many stunning in their color and design. And, of course, they’re a terrific protein. But get them now; it’s a short season.
Currently, Specialty Produce has a number of different shelling beans, mostly from McGrath Family Farms. I picked coco, mauve runner, and tongue of fire beans and cooked them up for a three-bean salad. But I had leftovers so I made a spicy turkey chili, which is now in the freezer for when cooler weather finally hits.
There are many other ways to use these beans, including pureeing them with herbs, garlic, and olive oil into a savory spread, making a traditional pasta e fagioli, pureeing into vegetable soup, and, of course, cooking up for a flavorful and healthy burrito filling. Remember, they do need to be cooked, usually 45 minutes to an hour in well salted water. Add a couple of bay leaves, but not much else because the beans have their own distinctive flavors.
Coco
Talk about drama, these big plump black Italian heirlooms come in a homely nondescript package but are a surprise when they burst out of the shell. Because they are so large and fat, you’ll need to cook them longer than smaller beans, but the sweet, nutty flavor and full-bodied texture are inspiring for a hearty braised dish with short ribs or simmered with onions and Italian sausages. They’re $5.00 a pound.
Mauve Runner
Mauve runners are the visual counterpoint to Tongue of Fire beans. The shells that I had were raggedy and slipping toward brown, but inside the kidney-shaped beans are flamboyantly colored mauve with dramatic blue speckles and lines. Once cooked they are seductively meaty and creamy—and, surprisingly, retain their fierce design. You’ll want to show these off in a salad. They’re $5.00 a pound.
Tongue of Fire
It’s hard to believe that this colorful variegated bean pod isn’t really edible. It’s so inviting—but, in fact, you need to shell the beans and discard the flashy pods. The reward is ample. The beans, which are an Italian heirloom shelling bean, look like sweet miniature Easter eggs with their cream background frivolously decorated by pink speckles. Enjoy the visuals for now, because, sadly cooking mutes the color. However, the flavor is terrific; they’re nutty and slightly sweet with a great chew factor. Perfect for summer succotash. They are $6.00 a pound.
Three-Bean Summer Salad with Warm Beef Bacon Vinaigrette
I have a huge bush of sorrel growing in my garden, and found myself with gorgeous heirloom tomatoes and an ear of corn. Time for a salad with the beans as the meaty star. To balance the flavors, add slices of orange. The sugar and acid will complement with the heaviness of the beans and the sourness of the sorrel. Then, for fun, I made up a warm beef bacon vinaigrette with beef bacon from Brandt Beef.
Photos by Caron Golden
About the Author: There's not much that award-winning food writer Caron Golden enjoys more than discovering unique edibles at the markets--and then turning them into memorable meals for friends and family. The official journey began with her blog, San Diego Foodstuff, and has expanded to include writing for national publications like Saveur and culinate.com as well as appearances on KPBS radio. Unofficially, it began with Mom and Dad, who still think hanging out at 99 Ranch is the world's best entertainment. Follow Caron on Twitter at @carondg.
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