
Featured articles
Food & Drink
Food & Drink
Things to Do
Featured articles
Things to Do
Arts & Culture
Arts & Culture
Featured articles
Charitable SD
Things to Do
Things to Do
Featured articles
podcast-ep
podcast-ep
podcast-ep
Featured articles
Arts & Culture
Arts & Culture
Features
Featured articles
Food & Drink
Food & Drink
Charitable SD
Ready to know more about San Diego?
SubscribeReady to know more about San Diego?
More than two years after the acquisition, misinformation and misunderstanding still abound
When Ballast Point announced it was selling to Constellation Brands in 2015, the news rocked the entire San Diego beer community. More than anything, the deal’s billion-dollar price tag sent shockwaves throughout the craft beer industry.
What shocked me most about the deal—above and beyond the previously unimaginable purchase price—was how quickly so many folks in the beer community turned their backs—not only on the company, but also on its people. Sure, I understood where a lot of that bad feeling was coming from; hard-core craft fans felt Ballast was “selling out” and betraying some sort of implied contract they had with their customer base to remain, as other people put it, “independent.” To my mind, no one had really successfully defined the parameters of what “truly independent” actually means, nor had they agreed on which aspects of independence were specifically so great. I would argue that a home-grown local company that makes its product locally, contributes to the local economy, is a good corporate citizen, and employs hundreds of locals, is a good company—regardless of who owns it. I know plenty of people would disagree with me on this, and I understand that perspective as well—I just believe it’s misguided.
I’ve known Ballast Point Vice President and Specialty Brewer Colby Chandler for a long time now. I got to know him and the Ballast Point team back when I first started writing about beer in San Diego. I’ve seen firsthand how Colby, Home Brew Mart, and Ballast Point have played crucial roles in developing the craft beer culture and community here; the contributions they have made to the advancement and promotion of the industry are matched only by one or two other breweries in town. Knowing Colby, and knowing how strained the years since the acquisition have been for him as a member of the craft beer community, I have wanted for a while now to sit down and give him the opportunity to speak to all the misinformation and misconceptions there are about exactly what kind of company Constellation Brands actually is, what their actual day-to-day involvement in the brewery is, and how things have changed (or not) since the acquisition.
I finally—and recently—had that chance to sit down with Colby to discuss those long-awaited topics and more. Luckily, we were also joined by veteran Ballast Point V.P. of Marketing Hilary Cocalis, who added her 5+ years of perspective and was able to elaborate on certain key points and issues regarding the company as it stands today.
Hilary: You know, it’s interesting. The first misconception is who we were even acquired by. It was a landmark deal probably for the number—people will remember the billion dollars, but they won’t remember the details behind it. A lot of people think we were acquired by Anheuser-Busch or some other “big beer” company. A lot of people in San Diego don’t even know who Constellation is or what the history is. This is a company that really is a “House of Brands.” It started as a wine company and now has a portfolio of wine brands including Mondavi, Clos du Bois, and Simi. They’re brand managers.
Colby: Yes. They acquire brands and then manage them to the next level. And they’ve been doing it for the past 54 years or so.
Hilary: And the majority of that was wine. They only just recently got into the beer business. They got the import rights for the Mexican brands only recently.
Colby: Five years ago. They hadn’t had a beer brand until five years ago.
Hilary: Well, they were importing beer before the company was brewing it themselves. But, before the past five years, they were not brewers. They acquire brands that have potential and let them do their thing and grow them.
Hilary: Right.
Colby: Right. I don’t consider them “chefs.” You know what I mean? I don’t consider them manufacturers, in the historical sense. They only recently became brewers of the Mexican portfolio, not just importers. They are brand managers. And the whole point is that they haven’t touched the chefs here at all. We haven’t “cleaned house.” And the majority of our people haven’t left. It’s the same crew making the same beer, it’s just that we’re doing it with better facilities and better equipment. We were already heading in that direction [before the acquisition]. We were already quality focused and we were already kind of super corporate in a lot of ways to begin with. I think, actually, in a lot of ways, we’re less corporate now with Constellation than we were as an independent brewery. Hilary? Yes? No?
Hilary: I think yes in that we have a lot more freedom to build the brand the way that we want to under Constellation’s guidance.
Hilary: It was between 400 and 500. Now we’re at about 750. So we’ve grown our employee base.
Hilary: We were the 13th largest craft brand in the nation before were acquired.
Colby: Most people don’t know that Constellation bought the rights for the Modelo group but they can only brew it in Mexico and they can only sell it in the United States. They do not have the distribution rights for worldwide; that is fully AB-InBev. Constellation bought the rights for the Modelo group from AB-InBev to produce that product as a completely separate entity. Constellation is not an international company. They’re not owned by an international company. They’re a New York- and Chicago-based company, basically.
Hilary: And they’re family owned.
Colby: We have a larger international footprint as Ballast Point than Constellation has as a whole. We run our own international sales and everything. So that’s just a little bit of perspective.
Hilary: I think another misconception, going back to the quality issue, is that our quality has gone down. We hear that all the time through second-hand and third-hand sources; that we’re owned by Constellation and our quality has gone down. That’s a tougher one to quantify or to justify, honestly, because as a marketing person I can pay lip service to that and say it’s not true, but it’s a subjective thing. What I can say is that the amount of investment that we’ve put into our quality program—to Colby’s point, we were doing that even before the deal—but it’s even grown since the deal. We have a lab in every brewery, we’re expanding our lab here [in Miramar], and we doubled the size of our field quality team. The one proof point that we’re really proud of is that we have more than 300 quality touch points for every single batch of beer—that includes everything from the raw ingredients to out on the shelves in the market. And nothing about the procurement of our raw ingredients has changed. We’re working with the same hop farmers, we’re still working with the same malt vendors, we’re now even propagating our own yeast in many cases. James Murray, our head of brewing operations, is still running all of that decision making.
Colby: The quality has definitely gotten better. [Colby later added that, at the last GABF, Manta Ray won gold in the extremely competitive IIPA category and Sour Wench won silver—and both submissions were sent from large regular production batches.]
Hilary: Absolutely. And I think if you were to ask some of the executives at Constellation they would tell you that the thought leadership we bring to quality is what they see as appealing. As they’ve started to acquire other craft brands—Funky Buddha in Florida, for example—they’re looking to us for guidance on how to help them with their quality program.
Hilary: Not one bit.
Colby: Yes. But don’t get us wrong. It’s not like we’re saying absolutely nothing has changed since the deal. Things have changed, but it’s mostly been admin. Or sales and marketing. Those are the areas where Constellation is bringing its resources to us and we’re taking advantage of that. But, again, they’re not the chefs. So they kind of let us rule the kitchen.
Hilary: There’s pressure to grow the business, but we had that before.
Colby: And they’re not dictating the brands that we’re making. They’re guiding us a little bit here and there. But we’re still putting the beers out and making the recipes. And places like [Ballast Point] Little Italy are still full steam ahead with all the R&D down there.
Colby: Unless the beer is shitty…
Hilary: It seems the defining factor these days in this category is “independent” versus “non-independent.” For us, we think it should be about quality. All we can do is make the best beer we can and stand behind it. And the folks who won’t drink Ballast Point any more because we’re owned by Constellation—because of the independence factor—there’s not much we can do to win them back, other than to potentially show them that this is still great beer and there are still great people here that are passionate about making it. We may not be “independent,” but we are—first and foremost—a San Diego brewery. San Diego is still 20% of our total business. And this is where the majority of our employees work and live, and we’re doing a lot to support the community here. I mean, we’re still running Home Brew Mart, our original location that Jack opened as a homebrew supply shop—and we’re still running it as a homebrew supply shop. If we just cared about being a big national brand, what would be our incentive to do that?
Colby: Yes, that’s right. That’s another misconception. People think Constellation owns its own distributors; they don’t. They have their own network of distributors, which they call the Gold Network, but when people say we’re restricting access to market, we can’t. We can’t control it the way AB-InBev does with their own distributors. The only way we can control it is with quality beer.
Colby: Half of our distributors were already lined up with the network before the acquisition.
Hilary: That’s right. We were already mostly lined up with the distributor network and we were already distributed to most of the U.S. Our route to market hasn’t changed.
Colby: You should see the welcome mat they put out for us in the cities we’re going into. The difference between the San Diego brewing scene and the brewing scenes in other cities around the country is pretty dramatic. People are actually excited for us to come into places like Virginia and Chicago—even Disney at this point. It’s the complete opposite of what other breweries have experienced here in San Diego. It’s a passionate culture that we’ve created here over the past twenty to twenty-five years. I always relate it back to an indie band getting a record deal. You may find it hard to support them for the first couple of years, but sooner or later you realize they’re still making f*****g good music.
Let me also add that I didn’t get into the beer business—I didn’t fall in love with micro-brews—because of who owned them. I fell in love with how they tasted. And I’m bummed about the beer drinkers we’re creating nowadays, because they feel they can only drink “independent beer,” and it doesn’t matter if the beer tastes good or not, or the history behind it. Does that mean you can’t have a Guinness on St. Patrick’s Day because it’s owned by Diageo? I can’t have a Corona and a taco on Cinco de Mayo because it’s Constellation? That’s not why I got into this business. I think it’s turning in not the best direction, and I think Ballast is kind of feeling that in a lot of ways. For me, it’s always been about the beer. And the whole reason I’ve been here for 21 years is because we’ve always made great f*****g beer.
Colby: Home Brew Mart. That’s almost the foundation of the San Diego brewing community.
Colby: Sometimes I think it hurts the wrong people. Somebody’s intention to “hurt” Ballast Point just trickles down and eventually hurts some of the 450 people working here in San Diego.
Hilary: I have to say that, historically, we’ve been a pretty quiet and humble brand. We’re not out there tooting our own horn; we’ve always let the beer speak for itself and let the consumers and our fans speak for us. If anything, I think we’ve been too quiet after the acquisition about what the culture really is here, and what has not changed. We’ve let the rumor mill sort of run rampant a little bit. Even doing something like this interview feels a bit uncomfortable because we shouldn’t have to prove ourselves or toot our own horn.
Colby: The irony for me is that I was president of the Guild for almost six years, it was all volunteer work, and a lot of it was done on Jack’s dime while I was working. We supported the community so much when we had no resources. And now that we have all of the resources, the community won’t let us support them any more. That’s the most frustrating thing for me. I mean, nothing’s really changed for us. We’re still going to promote San Diego here, we’re going to promote San Diego in our new locations around the country, and we’re always going to promote the brewing scene in San Diego to the rest of the world. We also want to help the local hop growers and Pink Boots and folks like that, and if people want our help we’re going to give it to them.
Colby: Nobody remembers it, but when I was president, I always said if Budweiser had a plant in San Diego they would be a part of the Guild. That’s because I would have leveraged their resources for everything! For meetings, for food, for festivals, whatever. That ultimately would help everybody, right?
Colby: Yeah. We want to do it. And more importantly, Constellation wants to do it. They’re kind of new to this too, you know? They bought a brewery in the most beer-nerdy city in the United States, so it’s a learning curve for them as well.
Has Anything Really Changed Since Ballast Point Sold to Constellation?
Colby Chandler is Vice President and Specialty Brewer at Ballast Point Brewing Company | Photo: Bruce Glassman
The new Hawaiian- and Japanese-inspired cafe will serve locally caught bluefin, fresh spring rolls, housemade sauces, and plenty of matcha
Not all monsters have to be scary. In fact, entrepreneur Pinyada “Ada” Primpray’s is delightful. Sea Monster, a small cafe that will serve poke bowls, fresh spring rolls, and matcha, will open in Mission Valley by the end of the year.
“The concept is a Hawaiian- and Japanese-style cafe,” Primpray explains. She calls it Sea Monster in homage to her friend’s popular restaurant Big Monster Sushi & Thai in Hawaii, but “the idea really started to take shape after I came back from a solo trip to Italy,” she says. The experience inspired her to start her own concept that mixed her culture, experience, and passion for food.
Sea Monster will be her first restaurant as an owner, but Primpray has worked in restaurants for 15 years in places like Kauai, Chicago, New York, and San Diego. She realized a similar health-conscious, seafood-forward, quick-service restaurant could work here, especially in that corner of Mission Valley where pizza and burgers reign. Plus, she points to the massive development plans for the area—between Riverwalk bringing thousands of new homes to the area and even more coming from San Diego State University, there are lots of new locals looming on the horizon.
She brought on Head Chef Wasu Gibb Palipote from Sushisamba in Los Angeles to develop the menu and signature sauces, like ink wasabi and a larb sauce. “Every couple of months, we plan to introduce a new signature sauce created exclusively for Sea Monster by [Chef Palipote],” she says. All the sauces will be homemade, including a basil creamy sauce and sesame vinegar.

Sea Monster’s menu centers around fresh poke bowls—mostly locally-caught bluefin tuna and hamachi as well as salmon, served California-style rather than Hawaiian-style (the sauces are added to order rather than marinating on the fish, which can overpower its flavor). Toppings will range from the usual, like edamame and green onion, to upscale, like uni (sea urchin). She’ll also serve fresh salad rolls, a popular light snack in Vietnam and her native Thailand, with vegetables and seafood like salmon, shrimp, and imitation crab. Everything will be served to-go, although there will be very limited seating for people who want to dive in right away.
The matcha program will start small, with six iterations planned for opening and potentially more in the future. “I really want to have mango sticky rice,” she adds. Beyond adding items to the menu, Primpray says she hopes Sea Monster will be more than a restaurant. “I want it to grow into a lifestyle brand with its own little world,” she says, pointing to the restaurant’s mascot, Smoo. A monster with aspirations of growing bigger and bigger until it takes over? Yeah, sounds about right.
Sea Monster will open daily for lunch and dinner in late 2026 at 6110 Friars Road in Mission Valley.
Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
Kuya Sharpens owner Joshua “Jhun” de Andres turned a meditative practice into a business caring for prized kitchen knives—one whetstone at a time
“A sharp knife is a safe knife,” says Joshua “Jhun” de Andres, owner of Kuya Sharpens. It only takes a light touch to guide a properly-sharpened knife, while dull knives require much more force to cut through an object, increasing the likelihood and severity of an injury. “If you slip, that’s a lot of force that is now going into your finger, your hand, and that’s where it becomes extremely dangerous.”
De Andres started sharpening knives as a meditative practice during a time of personal grief, a way to zone in on a task with a useful and satisfying outcome. “[It was a] reminder to myself that you can fix something that’s broken and give it purpose again.” Once he ran through his own collection of knives, he started asking friends and family if he could sharpen theirs. When he’d sharpened everyone’s knives he could think of, he started posting videos on TikTok, where his first professional chef customer found him: Chef Tanner Stanich, chef de cuisine at Michelin-recognized Bib Gourmand Mabel’s Gone Fishing.

“That’s when things really started to take off,” he laughs. He uses whetstones rather than motorized belt sanders to sharpen, which gives him the ability to make microadjustments during the process for a more customized and controlled result. Whetstones also preserve steel more efficiently than other mechanical processes, which are faster, but take off more of the knife’s edge in exchange, reducing the lifespan of the knife.
Learning how to master whetstones takes a lot of time and practice, and while de Andres specializes in sharpening Japanese knives, he’ll sharpen a knife from anywhere. “Every knife deserves to be sharp,” he says.
Japanese kitchen knives are designed for extremely specific purposes: there’s a knife to break down a fish (deba), cut through boneless raw fish for sushi and sashimi (yanagiba), slice vegetables (nakiri), carve meat (sujihiki), debone poultry (honesuki), and even knives only the executive chef can use (kiritsuke). Few other culinary cultures utilize such ultra-specialized tools, and Japanese steel is prized for its extreme hardness and ability to maintain a razor-thin edge for decades when properly cared for.
De Andres is still figuring out different ways to expand his business: hosting workshops at Home Ec on Adams Avenue, creating knife restoration tutorials, and launching private lessons, all while continuing to sharpen knives people bring to him or even send from across the country. And he knows that for both home cooks and professional chefs, sharpening a knife that may have cost hundreds of dollars on a whetstone can feel overwhelming. Will I ruin it? Will I break it?
“You’re most likely not going to break it,” he promises. “But you are going to make it yours, and you have to kind of be okay with that.” Knives age and change just like humans do. Sharpening is an essential part of maintenance, and shaving away the dull edges to restore a shine takes care. And de Andres cares a lot.
“It’s just been really life-giving to me,” he says. “I know it seems really silly that taking a knife and putting it on a whetstone can change your perspective on how you view the world, but for me, it came to me at a time when I needed it most.”

Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
Check out the stacked lineup of talent participating in this year’s celebration of food, cocktails, wellness, and SoCal energy
Tickets to the Del Mar Wine & Food Festival get you in the door. The real fun is figuring out who you’ll run into once you’re there. This year’s weeklong schedule of exclusive events, running September 30–October 4, includes dinners, tastings, and loosely-supervised chaos where celebrity chefs and local icons finally let their hair down.
The festival has a track record of the unexpected: Bryan Cranston and Aaron Paul once toasted their mezcal brand Dos Hombres with an intimate dinner at the Lodge at Torrey Pines (and then, evidently unsatisfied, kept drinking it on the cliffs above Blacks Beach with a rotating cast of San Diego and Food Network chefs. Alex Morgan showed up for a dinner under the lights honoring the country’s most badass women chefs). Drew Brees ran a celebrity pickleball tournament where the guy from It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia got absolutely humbled by locals.
If you scored a ticket to last year’s Grand Tasting, you might’ve caught Guy Fieri doing exactly what Guy Fieri does: strolling the grass, signing t-shirts and foreheads, and hanging off the DJ surf van like it was built for him. Meanwhile, local chef Ethan Yang of Glass Box walked off with the Chef Competition surfboard.
So whether your plan for 2026 is to corner legendary San Diego chefs like Victor Jimenez of Cowboy Star and Jon Sloan of Juniper & Ivy in person, or just aim for a spontaneous golf cart ride with a Food Network star—here’s your cheat sheet for where to run into a celebrity chef, TV personality, award-winning winemaker, or pro athlete at this year’s Del Mar Wine & Food Festival.

Consider this your soft landing into festival week—the walk-around tasting that eases you in before things get chaotic later on. Monarch Ocean Pub hands its patio over to the flavors that define San Diego eating: Baja seafood done right, coastal bites, Mexican flavors with some heat behind them, all the staples locals will fight you over.
The celebrity sightings here lean more “bump into” than “spot from across the room.” Troy Johnson—Food Network judge, San Diego Magazine chief content officer and co-owner, Emmy-winning host, a man who has eaten his way across the entire country professionally—is the type to materialize at whichever station has the longest line, because he already knows it’s worth the wait. Ask him what he’s had so far. He’ll have opinions.
Then there’s celebrity pastry chef Karen Krasne, owner and executive pastry chef of Extraordinary Desserts, James Beard House alum, and a woman Forbes once ranked among the top 10 pastry chefs in the country—which tracks, because you might find her holding court next to a tray of her roasted pecan shortbread dipped in white chocolate, explaining exactly why this is the flavor combination. You will listen to every word, too, because you’ll want to try that cookie.
This is an opening night party where the person next to you in line might just be the one who baked the thing you’re about to eat.

Fifty years ago, a Napa Chardonnay beat France at its own game and rewrote what the world thought it knew about wine. This dinner is that legacy, poured by the family who built it, course by course.
Under the arches at Fairmont Grand Del Mar, Ernie Hahn and the Hahn family, who partnered with the Barretts to revive Chateau Montelena into the Napa powerhouse it is today, host an evening built entirely around the winery’s most iconic pours. Every course gets its own pairing straight from the Montelena portfolio, so you’re not just hearing about the Judgment of Paris, you’re tasting the wine that started it.
Chef Mawa McQueen, a former James Beard Best of the West winner out of Aspen, brings globally inspired cuisine and serious technique to the table. Alongside her, Fairmont Grand Del Mar’s executive chef Bryn McArthur leans into farm-to-table sensibility shaped by a career of global kitchens. Together they’re building a menu meant to hold its own against wine that already changed history once.
This is the rare dinner where the wine isn’t just accompanying the meal, it’s the reason the meal exists. Fifty years after Paris, the rematch is happening right here in Del Mar.

Isabella Dallas is a freelance writer for San Diego Magazine and the Arts and Culture Editor at The Daily Aztec in her final year at San Diego State University. She previously worked as an editorial intern for SDM, but when she’s not writing, you can find her trying the best coffee spots in SD, devouring the latest rom-coms, and indulging in anything and everything pop culture.
At Vi at La Jolla Village, residents don't have to choose between security and adventure, connection and independence. They get all of it.
Today’s seniors are more connected than ever, with a renewed focus on retirement as a time of discovery and enriching experiences. The ultimate reward for a retirement well-earned is the wisdom to appreciate it all, and what better place to enjoy that unique perspective than Vi at La Jolla Village, in the heart of San Diego.
All-access pass to good living.
As a Continuing Care Retirement Community (CCRC), Vi provides access to a connected and fulfilling community while making it easy to plan for future care, should the need ever arise. With a care plan in place, residents enjoy greater financial predictability and long-term value, freeing them to focus on making the most out of retirement.
Resort-style amenities at the epicenter of a cultural hub like San Diego offer a retirement experience unlike any other. Paired with exceptional dining, spacious accommodations and dedicated staff, the best of maintenance-free living is all around. And with the introduction of Vista 360 Well-Being, Vi’s panoramic approach to wellness, there are more ways than ever for residents to access it all.
The harmony of mind, body and community.

The key to longevity is striking the right balance in maintaining an active lifestyle with an active mind in a fulfilling community. With newly renovated community spaces and restaurants, Vista brings a variety of opportunities for residents to elevate their well-being through Vi-exclusive “Signature Experiences.”
Vista Enrich takes an evidence-based approach to brain vitality, keeping residents at the forefront of cognitive health through exergaming (exercising + gaming), nutritional plans and informative workshops. It is also home to The Brain Vitality Studio, an innovative facility dedicated to cognitive fitness that has garnered national recognition.
Vista Discover invites residents into stimulating educational experiences, from chef-led cooking demos and guided wine tastings to lectures at local universities and intimate lectures following cultural outings.
While Vista Enrich focuses on brain health and Vista Discover engages residents intellectually, Vista Explore cultivates a sense of adventure through curated travel and local excursions. But broadening one’s horizons doesn’t always require a plane ticket. One recent event brought a taste of the world right to the community: an onsite “jazz cruise” featuring live music and global cuisine served at a series of themed “ports” all within the community’s own ballroom.
“Location, location, location”

One of the biggest perks of life at Vi at La Jolla Village is its proximity to just about everything. With easy access to transportation and local attractions just steps away, residents can explore and engage with their community at their own pace.
“There are trolley and bus stops within a 5-minute walk that will get you to the beach, UCSD Campus, medical appointments, downtown La Jolla or San Diego, et cetera. We rarely use our car,” said resident Tom Yager.
With the best of San Diego just steps away, residents don’t just live in the city, they live within reach of everything that makes it special.
The best of all worlds.

At Vi at La Jolla Village, retirement isn’t a chapter to slow down; it’s an invitation to discover more. Tailored community experiences created by Vista, paired with the vibrant pulse of San Diego just outside the door, mean that residents don’t have to choose between security and adventure, connection and independence. They get all of it.
This is what an all-access pass to good living looks like: the comforts of an elevated lifestyle, a community built for growth and a city made for discovery – all in one place.
To learn more about Vi at La Jolla Village or for details on available floor plans, visit ViatLaJollaVillage.com/SDM.
Surf’n Slaw founder Kumi Alexander is introducing local farmers market crowds to okonomiyaki, the savory Japanese pancake she grew up eating
After 15 years married, my husband and I tend to agree on most things. But there’s one argument we both refuse to bend on—I prefer okonomiyaki Osaka-style, and he’s a die-hard Hiroshima-style devotee. (To be fair, we both adore both styles, but at this point, it’s just fun to have a low-stakes disagreement.)
Okonomiyaki is one of Japan’s greatest comfort foods, a savory pancake that’s about the size of a DVD, if you aren’t too young to know what that is. It’s not terribly hard to make—it’s flour, eggs, dashi stock or water, and a whole heap of shredded cabbage, plus optional fillings like green onions, pork belly, or bonito flakes, all cooked fresh on a flat top griddle. Drizzle some kewpie mayo and okonomiyaki sauce on top, and you’re hot to go.
However, it’s not easy to make well, and as you now know, people have capital-O Opinions about Osaka-versus-Hiroshima. Hiroshima-style layers the ingredients one by one rather than mixing them together, adding a layer of soba or udon noodles and topping it all off with a fried egg. For Osaka-style, all the ingredients are mixed together and then cooked on the griddle, so every bite includes every ingredient in a hodgepodge of deliciousness. (One Osaka variation called modan-yaki does include soba noodles mixed in the batter, but they’re not traditionally used in that regional version.)
Despite a childhood spent in Osaka, Japan, Kumi Alexander specializes in making Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. “Okonomiyaki has been part of my life for as long as I can remember,” she explains. “My parents ran their own business when I was growing up, so Saturdays were often busy, and okonomiyaki was one of my mother’s go-to lunches because it was simple and easy to make.”
Alexander came to San Diego seven years ago with a desire to bring a part of her culture with her—not just a product, but a feeling. “When I thought about what could do that, the answer was almost obvious: okonomiyaki,” she says.
She originally launched Surf’n Slaw as a mobile pop-up food stand in August 2025, offering what Alexander calls Japanese-meets-California okonomiyaki. “Our full Surf’n Slaw includes cabbage, noodles, umami dough, beef, shrimp, and vegetables,” she explains. The menu also has a “Green Wave Slaw,” an Osaka-style version that can be made vegan and gluten-free, as well as matcha drinks.
Currently, Surf’n Slaw pops up at farmers markets in North Park, Scripps Ranch, Hillcrest, La Jolla, and La Mesa, as well as other local markets and community events. Eventually, she may expand to a permanent location, but that’s a future goal. And while Alexander hopes that one day okonomiyaki will be as well-known to American audiences as ramen or sushi, for now, she’s just happy to share a bit of home with San Diego.
Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
San Diego entrepreneur Kenji Blouin-Ito is turning a tiny Uptown Inn space into a destination for bentos, coffee, snacks, and more
Tokyo unquestionably holds the title as one of the best, if not the best, food cities of the world. But despite the plethora of Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurants and hole-in-the-wall ramen joints, you’d be remiss in walking past glowing signs beckoning you to enter one of the 56,000-plus konbini across the country.
Konbini cafes like Lawson’s, FamilyMart, and 7-Eleven may look like run-of-the-mill convenience stores, but convenience store culture is a completely different animal there. Absent are the sad, floppy hot dogs sizzling sweatily on a rotating wheel of misery. Instead, konbini are stocked with a bevy of hot and cold drinks in every imaginable flavor, meals like tamago sandos (Japanese egg salad sandwiches) and prepacked bento boxes, snacks like onigiri (handheld triangles of rice and seaweed, often filled with fish or pickled plum), and even limited-edition merchandise (not unlike Wawa’s line of merch).
Soon, Hillcrest will get a taste of konbini culture. Hako Hako opens in front of Uptown Inn by Vantaggio, next to Ramen Ryoma, in early 2027.
Kenji Blouin-Ito, a half-Japanese, half-French San Diego native grew up eating Japanese food at home and during trips across the Pacific. “I remember looking forward to eating bentos on the train,” he says, grabbing quick items to munch on without sacrificing quality or succumbing to cost. When in France, he saw a rise of appreciation for casual Japanese cuisine, “long before it happened here.”

So he decided to bring it here. After AB 626 passed in 2018 to allow different jurisdictions to permit Microenterprise Home Kitchen Operations (MEHKOs), Blouin-Ito joined Foodnome, the first legal marketplace for homemade food in the US, as a co-founder. Eventually, the national nonprofit The Cook Alliance took over the project, leaving him open to the next new idea but with the experience of running a food-based business.
“That experience changed how I think about food, not just what makes it good but what makes it work,” he explains. Bento boxes felt affordable in a time of inflation, convenient in a bustling world, and versatile to a variety of palates. When he got the chance to open a konbini himself, he went for it.
His family runs Uptown Inn, a mix of apartments and hotel rooms that’s seen increased food traffic over the past few years. “We had a small space in front of the building that wasn’t being used, and it just made sense,” he says. Hako means “box” in Japanese, a reference to both bentos and small space from where he’ll sling freshly made bentos, coffee, drinks, pastries, snacks, and a small retail selection.
Hako Hako will initially open for morning and afternoon hours, but you don’t have to wait until next year to get a taste of Japanese culture. Blouin-Ito’s concept is popping up at various coffee shops around San Diego, with a few coming up: Easy Does It on September 19 and Cafe Moto on October 17. Until then, practice the art of gaman: patience with grace.
Hako Hako opens at 819 University Avenue in Hillcrest in early 2027.
Listen Now: The Latest in San Diego’s Food and Drink Scene
Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].
Beth Demmon is an award-winning writer and podcaster whose work regularly appears in national outlets and San Diego Magazine. Her first book, The Beer Lover's Guide to Cider, is now available. Find out more on bethdemmon.com.
San Diego Magazine's Private School Guide 2026
NewBridge School is San Diego’s only school dedicated to the education of students with dyslexia and related learning profiles. For 30 years we have successfully served students with dyslexia, dysgraphia, dyscalculia, receptive/expressive language disorders, ADHD, executive functioning and memory deficits. Students transition successfully into academically rigorous high schools and colleges across the country. Why NewBridge? Training, training, training (plus intensive individualization, and comprehensive program design). All teachers are trained and retrained biennially in Orton-Gillingham, the only approach proven to remediate dyslexia based on Science of Reading research, and complete a year-long training program. Every aspect of our program is designed around our students’ learning styles and needs. Every class is taught by a highly-trained expert, and our Speech/Language and Occupational Therapy teams embed throughout the day. Our multisensory, multi-tiered math program has been developed in conjunction with sister schools and experts across the country. Don’t wait—early intervention is magic!
Enrollment: 100
Grades: K – 8
Tuition: $30,000
Deadline: Rolling
Gender: All-inclusive
Details Nonsectarian
Open House Tours by appointment

12285 Oak Knoll Road • Poway, California 92064
858-679-5744 • [email protected] • thenewbridgeschool.com